On 15 Apr 2003 at 20:47, Steve Delanty wrote:

> >Could you possibly post a few more details as to exactly where you > installed the > >capacitor and ground cable? > > Da Cable: > > One end of the ground cable goes to the alternator body. > I used one of the four small (4mm?) studs that holds the > alt together. I think I used a cable lug with a #10 hole. > I found a nut in my metric junk hardware box that fit the stud... > > The other end of the cable I bolted to the body sheet metal.. > I found a hole, aprox 1/4" diameter in the body metal roughly > near center, above the bell housing. I used the dremel tool to > clean a small patch of paint from around the hole and bolted > the cable there with a 1/4" bolt and nut.

Thank you! As it turns out, it sounds like I chose the same location on body, and decided to attack it with a dremel this morning after last night's failed attempt, just in case it wasn't clean enough. Still no change... :-(

> Da Capacitor: > > One end goes to alternator ground. Use another one of the > small bolts that protrudes from the back of the alt. > The other end of the capacitor goes to the LARGE (output) > terminal on the alt. You'll need about a wire lug with > about a 5/16" hole.

Ok, here I used the smaller + terminal, with the blue wire which I believe goes to the alternator dash light. Is there a difference between this and the larger terminal? I assume there must be, because engine off, I get 12V difference between them, yet with engine on I get 12V between each one and ground. Does this make sense?

> >any suitable grounding points near the engine. Any detail on where you located > >things would be helpful - my changes have had NO effect so far. > > Well, it's very possible that it won't help in your case... > There's probably a lot of reasons for VS or VS related > symptoms, and what cures one may not cure all.

Well jeez, I want my money back then! ;-)

> I'm quite sure it cured mine, and from the things I witnessed > on the oscilloscope, I can certainly see why it helped in my case. > It's certainly a relatively cheap and easy thing to try, so it's > a good starting point in either case, before resorting to more > expensive attempts...

Seriously, thanks for relating your efforts, it certainly can't hurt to try it...

I've now checked nearly every electrical connector (all clean, except oil press and temp sender connector), except the temp sensor on the front of the t-stat housing, which is near impossible to reach from above. I hesitated to crawl beneath, as the van was still dripping coolant from my less than stellar attempt at replacing the coolant level sensor without spilling a drop. I confirmed the sensor is identical to the one I just replaced last year on my Jetta, so I borrowed it and proceeded to test fit it in the Vanagon tank... and promptly broke it. So in one fell swoop, I've managed to put both vehicles out of commission. Great. So now I am waiting for JB Weld to setup on the slightly less broken Vanagon sensor (it has small crack on each probe) in the hopes it will last long enough to get another sensor, so I can repeat this whole process tomorrow night. :-(

Shawn Wright http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright { This message sent by Pegasus Mail, guaranteed virus-free } { Try the brand new version 4.1 at http://pmail.com }