Date:         Mon, 21 Apr 2003 08:38:03 -0700
Reply-To:     gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      valves adjusted(sorta..) now a final VERY IMPORTANT question
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Paul,
    I agree this is all very unclear but after
thinking about it here is my read.   There is a good
range of adjustment that can be made and the vanagon
will run just fine.   What you are trying to achieve
is to have the valve riding in the middle range of the
lifter's hydralic action.   If your a little to low or
to high no big deal.   Even at the bottom of the
lifter it can run just fine if it is not clattering.
Two far at the top of the lifter and the valve can be
held open and this can be serious but it is likely
that in this position the van will not start or not
run well at an idle.   The turn and 1/2 rule avoids
this condition.   The best stradegy is to run the van
at zero lash to pump up the lifter if you are not sure
if they are pumped up and then proceed to the final
adjustment of a turn and 1/2.   You may want to do a
compression check afterwards if your idle is strained.
        gary
   Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 12:59:33 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Paul Archibald <androbus@yahoo.com>
Subject: valves adjusted(sorta..) now a final VERY
IMPORTANT question

OK Guys....still VERY UNCLEAR on this whole adjustment
thing. I have been wrenching on airplanes, cars and
motorcycles for over twenty years, and always
comprehend
fully, but this time.....

Yesterday I tighten all down until the adj screw just
contacted teh actual valve and you cound see it just
compress teh spring..I stopped here and tightened the
nuts.
on start there was valve clatter, but it mostly went
away
after driving for eight miles...hmm! was wondering if
it
just needed a final bedding in in the morning,
but...still
thinking not right...

ok, I re-adjusted this morning after letting things
sit
overnight... according to my readings some were
slightly
OVERTIGHT!?? and others loose. I re-adjusted tehm
again,
this time slightly pushing the spring down just a
hair.
started up and no valve clatter....hmmm!

so do I understand that what ALL the books and you all
are
trying to actually say(but not saying) is to adjust
the
valves until the spring/valve compresses....THAN
tighten
the adjuster down another 1 1/2 turns? on doing this
than
the lifters will react and spouge out the excess oil
until
the spring isn't compressed(guessing in the first five
or
ten minutes of driving?

Really need to clarify this. I am no dummy, but this
is
really fuzzy unlike ANY engine I have ever worked on
over
the years....wierd If what I am surmising is the
correct
way, I think the manuals NEED to be re-written to
prevent
expensive mistakes and blame placed on
misinformation...


Oh yeah! THe engine now runs like a champ!  ;-) all
teh
missing power from the bad #3 intake seat, and the #1
exhaust seat that had receded 32mm!!!! into the head!
Yes!
htat is right!  ;-0 lotsa welding-n-re-working there!
;-)

Cool! ;-) running on four freshly honed and newly
ringed
pistons, rebuilt heads, and now sorta adjusted
valves....
IT feels sooooo good to be driving the westy again
after
the last two months of driving borrowed cars!

soon...onto the '78 westy!  ;-)
and.....diesel conversion in the '84 vanagon...
but....
now back to wrenching on the midget and land-rovers
for a
change!  ;-)

Paul(scratching head)


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