Date:         Mon, 28 Apr 2003 10:36:00 -0400
Reply-To:     Marla Stelk <mjstelk@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Marla Stelk <mjstelk@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Hall Sensor Test 2.1L
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Hi Sidney - I would love to hear what you find out about this - I've been a
little lost on this subject as well.  My hall sender is loose where it goes
into the distributor, but I believe the wires are still in good shape.  But
I've always wanted to test the Hall sensor anyway, because I've had a hunch
that it might be responsible for some idle problems in my van.  I've got a
multimeter, too - not sure how it translates to a voltmeter or exactly how
to read it.   A lot of times, the guys on the list will just respond to the
sender directly, so the list doesn't get the benefit of their knowledge.
Anyway, I'd greatly appreciate if you'd share your findings with me.  Sounds
like we have some similar issues with our vans.

Thanks!
Marla
'87 Westy GL Vana Morrison





    From: Sidney White <Jeanon@AOL.COM>
Reply-To: Jeanon@AOL.COM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Hall Sensor TEst 2.1L
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 19:28:11 EDT

On Digifant the Bentley test #  28.43 refers to using a US1115 voltmeter(
not
a multimeter). The test says if LED flickers, hall sender is OK. What is a
US1115 Voltmeter and what can be used instead. I used a multimeter but dont
know what results I should get. I already put in a used replacement hall
sender and am testing it to be sure it is good, if it is bad then I need a
ECU as the test #28.44 failed and I do not get 4.5volts, I get zero volts-
on
the other hand maybe I won't if the hall sender is bad. Sooo, that is why I
need to insure hall sender is good, ECU's might be expensive and dont want
to
buy one unnecessarily.

What say you?

Sidney in New Orleans







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