Go get a good Epoxy glue and glue the hall sensor to the distributor. I've done this on 4 Vanagon and not one has ever come back. This ends up being stronger than new. Eric Marla Stelk wrote: > Hi Sidney - I would love to hear what you find out about this - I've been a > little lost on this subject as well. My hall sender is loose where it goes > into the distributor, but I believe the wires are still in good shape. But > I've always wanted to test the Hall sensor anyway, because I've had a hunch > that it might be responsible for some idle problems in my van. I've got a > multimeter, too - not sure how it translates to a voltmeter or exactly how > to read it. A lot of times, the guys on the list will just respond to the > sender directly, so the list doesn't get the benefit of their knowledge. > Anyway, I'd greatly appreciate if you'd share your findings with me. Sounds > like we have some similar issues with our vans. > > Thanks! > Marla > '87 Westy GL Vana Morrison > > From: Sidney White <Jeanon@AOL.COM> > Reply-To: Jeanon@AOL.COM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Hall Sensor TEst 2.1L > Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 19:28:11 EDT > > On Digifant the Bentley test # 28.43 refers to using a US1115 voltmeter( > not > a multimeter). The test says if LED flickers, hall sender is OK. What is a > US1115 Voltmeter and what can be used instead. I used a multimeter but dont > know what results I should get. I already put in a used replacement hall > sender and am testing it to be sure it is good, if it is bad then I need a > ECU as the test #28.44 failed and I do not get 4.5volts, I get zero volts- > on > the other hand maybe I won't if the hall sender is bad. Sooo, that is why I > need to insure hall sender is good, ECU's might be expensive and dont want > to > buy one unnecessarily. > > What say you? > > Sidney in New Orleans > > _________________________________________________________________ > STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail |
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