Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 08:20:59 -0700
Reply-To: wilden1@JUNO.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Subject: Re: 80 Westy Engine Fire - Mystery Solved
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
What bothered me was this was a new engine and all of the fuel lines were
replaced when the engine was put in, so I couldn't understand what caused
the engine to catch fire.
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What always bothers me is the stupid mistakes I've made over the years
when building or repairing and installing engines.
I cite a few examples:
#1) I found a wrist pin retaining criclip in my oil pan when I changed
the oil after initial run in. Solution take the engine apart again.
Pulled the engine, inspected everything. The circlip was an extra that
had sprung from my Tru-Arc pliers during installation and got lost in the
crankcase. Solution: Never have more than the required # of clips
available, always locate lost parts. Don't just reach in the spare parts
box and get another.
#2) Crankshaft end play. I had a locked up new rebuild. I removed the
transmission and checked the end play it was zero. I pulled the engine
and eventually found that I had left the spacer off the fan hub to crank
and the fan was bound against the cooling shroud. End play was properly
set just like the manual directed.
#3) I often find #3 main bearings sitting on TOP of the alignment pin
rather than with the pin in the proper hole. (Most of these engines last
5K or less, not none of my engines, junkyard engines)
#4) Found fuel leaks behind the fire wall at the pressure regulator.
Found fuel leaks behind the fire wall on the inlet side. Solution: Insert
a thin wall hobby tubing into the plastic line so it won't collapse when
tightened down under the clamp.
#5) Found near invisible minute fuel leaks on the short injector lines to
fuel rails. It takes wrapping them with paper towel or very bright light
to see them. They are so fine as to vaporize upon exit, some leaked only
when the pressure regulator cycled.
#6) I broke the ring lands when #3 piston seized in the cylinder. I was
running 85 mph in my 83 Westy at the time. I saved the engine because my
back window was clean and I saw the oil spots long before I lost oil
pressure.
#7) Had an engine on my test stand, ran it in and it ran fine. Next day I
couldn't get the oil pump to prime. Pinched O ring in the pump housing
was the problem. If an engine won't kill the idiot light or show oil
pressure immediately, don't run the engine.
#8) VW Tech notes specify looser piston fit, no base shims and notching
the rods to cool better (not a fix just might run cooler.)
#9) Often head gaskets to cylinders leak and seal as the engine gets warm
or hot. The fuel can leak into the push-rod covers and ignite there if
you have a stuck / leaking injector to provide enough fuel. Solution:
Drill a 3/8" hole in the push-rod covers to allow it to drain oil and
fuel that could be a fuel source.
#10) Engine backfire that caused injector tube to head plastic block to
crack, causing vacuum leak. The backfire distributed enough fuel to start
a blaze.
#11) Rock hard injector seals that shrunk, cracked or just leaked causing
vacuum leaks and backfires start a fire as fuel blows out around the
seal.
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A little detective work will reveal the cause of the engine fire. You got
your very own junk engine to practice on.
I have a very good rebuilt long block engine for $1300.00 + about $80.00
freight by Fast Forward freight if you want it. It has been bench tested.
It came to me with a dropped valve seat and had about 5K on the engine.
Pmail for details.
Stan Wilder
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