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Date:         Sat, 24 May 2003 18:12:47 -0400
Reply-To:     David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: front heater rebuild webpage?
Comments: To: Joel Cort <joel_cort@YAHOO.COM>,
          Roger Reynolds <Rogerspace2@AOL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <20030525020445.44126.qmail@web41011.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 10:04 PM 5/24/2003, Joel Cort wrote:

[Parenthetical note -- Joel, removing the blower *motor* from the blower fan and housing itself is a good deal harder than you've indicated on your page (though there's no setscrew). I've written stuff a couple times that's in the archives, and I'll collect and pass it on if I get a chance...]

>Hi Roger, >You are obviously looking for David Beierl's pictures and info.

I *wish* I had pictures. Next time, God forbid, I have one open I will get some, as I now have a suitable camera. However, the free-swinging flaps I've written about and which are mentioned in passing at the bottom http://www.knology.net/~vw/dash/ are easy to find if not so easy to fix, and the symptom they produce is very characteristic: If you get good ram air but poor output from the blower (blower motor running normally and not spitting out pieces of mouse nest) it is almost certain to be a problem with one or both of these flaps.

They are about 4"x6" and made of thin plastic similar to the rest of the case. They're located in the wall that separates the input from the output side of the blower, on either side of the blower; and they swing open toward the output side. Their purpose is to allow ram air to pass into the system without having to pass through the blower which would reduce the flow; but also to prevent the blower output from circulating right back to the input. Therefore they are free-swinging, very light, and operate on a small pressure difference (or should). When the heater box is in operating position they hang down vertically, swinging from molded pins at each end supported in little clips molded into the housing. They have a very light thin foam coating on the sealing side which is not necessary to renew, you can just rub the remains off with your thumb to make a reasonably smooth surface.

So: in normal operation, the breeze coming in from the external intake shoves them open to a limit of maybe 30 degrees and passes directly through into the interior, even at quite low speeds. However if for some reason the wind should be such that air is going backwards through the system, they will remain closed. If they are open and you start the blower, as soon as the blower makes enough output that it's driving some air back through these openings, the flaps close and remain closed so long as the pressure in the output side of the box is higher than the pressure from ram air coming in. In my experience running the blower at high speed will cause this at least up to 60 mph or better unless there's a gale of wind blowing from ahead.

The problem is that they are in an unfiltered intake stream which may contain dust and grit; and VW engineered them for cheapness and easy assembly instead of for longevity. The flaps hang suspended from the aforementioned clips *which in normal operation are open at the bottom* so that the flaps may be snapped into them easily. This means that the area that should be bearing the primary support load doesn't exist, and the load is taken instead by the clip at something like 45 degrees to either side. They can't close the opening too much because otherwise something would break when the flaps are clipped in during assembly.

In consequence, as the flaps swing open and shut through their restricted travel, the pins wear into a triangular profile, and the clips into a matching funnel shape. At some point down the road (short of 180,000 miles in my sample of three) one or both flaps either sticks open, or simply falls out of the clip entirely.

The cure is simple -- rehang the flaps so they work correctly -- but not easy, because working room is very restricted. What I've done is to build up the pins with filled epoxy if necessary (metal replacements would be better but harder), then remove all or part of the plastic clip as seemed indicated, and hang the pins from wire supports melted into the plastic. I've done two -- on the first I used wire brads heated and shoved through the box (which is very narrow at this point). On the second I worked up some sort of staple shape which I thought was clever, and which was inserted -- I think -- directly over the pins. I seriously wish I'd gotten pictures of that one, sigh. Results in both cases were excellent -- but you must make sure before reassembly that the flaps swing absolutly free and don't stick in any position. I don't know what will be the effect of the plastic pins bearing on the wires. I suspect they will wear at least as rapidly as the original arrangement, but perhaps they won't. Any tribologists with an opinion on this?

david

-- David Beierl - Providence RI USA -- http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation"


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