Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (May 2003, week 4)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Tue, 27 May 2003 14:05:42 -0700
Reply-To:     Brian brian <jackstraw723@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Brian brian <jackstraw723@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      1.9L vanagon syndrome (lawnnnggg)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hello there, I am not a regular list member, as I work on the road and I can’t afford the email, but I’ve been reading the archives a lot the last day or two, and am still stuck, and could use some help...but this is quite a long email. Sorry for the length, but I don't know which detail will make the difference.

The Van: is a 1984 Westfalia (built 12/83). I bought it three years ago from a VW shop after they had put new heads on the infamous 1.9L; mileage at that point was 85K. At about 105K I had a ‘complete’ tune-up done by a mechanic, which included plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. I don’t know how much work he did or didn’t do; i.e. I don’t know if he adjusted the timing at that point (I suspect not). This guy uses whatever cheap crap the parts store will deliver to him (I live in a small town in northern Michigan and the local parts store can’t even get Bosch parts); the van has been through a few more caps and wires since then, for awhile there was a hodge-podge ignition system - a month ago I cracked two caps in one night driving through a flooded construction zone during a downpour. The van is now up to 160K.

Me: I am not a trained mechanic. Everything I’ve learned has generally been the hard way, but I do feel I have a good handle on the fuel-injection system and how everything works in the Wasserboxer. The first and best investment I made in the van was buying the Bentley book.

The Problem: poor running. More specifically, continually running rich (I think).

The Story: began last year I think. When I would turn on the van when it was very hot, like after a few hours on the road a brief stop to fill up the tank, a large puff of white smoke would come out the exhaust. (Not black; I don’t think even 100 ml of oil disappears between regular oil changes (I use Mann filters from Germany)). This winter I only drove it about twice a month as I have a work vehicle during my winter job. This spring I noticed a bit more blue/white smoke in the exhaust, and not just on cold mornings. My first thought was water in the gas; my tank leaks at the top somewhere if I top it off, so I’ve been thinking this perhaps allows some moisture into the fuel system. So about every fourth tank I use a bottle of gas line conditioner, just in case. I run a fuel injector cleaner at every oil change. While working this spring and driving daily, performance has been crappy; rough starts, occasional power loss, occasional complete hiccup where it seems like time stops for the motor (more specifically like it is not getting gas for a split second). A side story - this strange hiccup would occur last year in conjunction with any significant bump in the road. One day I hit a bump and the motor shut down. I had spark, fuel, and plenty of crank in the starter (electrical system already redone; rebuilt alternator, starter, and new battery), but no running. I discovered the problem when I accidentally left the key on while I went back to start testing the sensors and such (I learned about the dirty ground problem the hard way two years ago and the ground connections are kept clean now) - I happened to bump the wires coming out of the Hall Generator and the motor turned over. One of the wires had broken inside the 90 degree plastic bracket that connects the Hall unit to the control unit spaghetti. This could have stranded me for days where I live, but fortunately my second best VW investment was not far away - another 84 Vanagon (built 11/83) at a junkyard (I bought the whole thing for $300, but can’t take it away as they keep vans for storage, which is great because the only part I don’t want is the body). I took the Hall connector off that one, spliced it into the wires on my Westy, and was good to go. I thought the wire slowly breaking in that bend had been the source of the occasional hesitation, and for several weeks the van ran great. But over the winter and spring the hesitating problem came creeping back. When I spliced in the new connector I only wrapped the bare wire with electrical tape. So finally the other day I stopped working long enough (gotta keep the $ coming in to keep a VW on the road to get to work to keep the $ coming in to ....I know my main mistake is using the van as my primary and only vehicle) to give my dear bus a little TLC. I put nice connectors on the wire connections to the Hall Generator. I put on a new fuel filter (it had been close to two years and perhaps 40K miles). A week earlier I had stopped at an import/VW specialist 150 miles away while working (I work on the road) and bought a complete set of Bosch goodies - cap, rotor, Bosch wires, and platinum plugs. I installed all those yesterday. No change in performance. So I broke out the digital multi-meter and the Bentley and started testing. Temp Sensor I & II and the Air-flow sensor all gave resistance readings perfectly in line with the chart. I even put on the air-box from my junkyard vanagon (also 150K miles, no knowledge if that motor runs or not), which also performed correctly, but did not solve the problem. In fact, everything seemed to be getting worse. My new platinum plugs were fouled within 40 miles (I drove to another VW shop for some opinions and help). I tried more of the Bentley tests. When testing using the pins on the ECU connector, the resistance on the fuel injectors was consistently (on all four) about 19 rather than the 16.5 the book suggests, but this doesn’t seem significant. I couldn’t quite get the tests of the throttle switches to work out right; the switches work correctly, but checking the voltage across the switches just after turning off the motor wouldn’t work. Bentley says they should read 5V, but the meter would show a volt or two, quickly decreasing down to 0. The book says this indicates a bad control unit, but the ECU I’ve been using is already a rebuild (long story that happened at 86K), I doubt I’ll have two go bad, and anyway I have another ECU from the junk vanagon that performs the same as my regular unit. Finally at fifteen to five I remembered the forgotten sensor - the O2. I got the parts store to have one on the delivery truck coming in this morning. My O2 sensor had last been changed at approximately 50K miles ago (the OXS bulb on the dash, along with the other four little bulbs up there, don’t work). So, I took out the O2, which was very, very black (none more black), popped in the new one, and started it up. It blew a cloud of smoke at first, and then it slowly diminished to nothing. I then went for a beautiful test drive at 75 mph with no problems. Perhaps 20 miles and a few testing stops and starts. Then I was inside for an hour, came out to go to a jobsite, and the fun began all over again. Barely starting, stalling, hiccuping. OK, so I had been a bit lazy and hadn’t changed the fouled plugs yet. So, another side story. When I got my new O2 sensor this morning, I tried to buy new plugs. Bosch not available here of course. Bentley suggests a Champion 288. The parts store said it didn’t exist. Their computer reported that I needed a 302. I didn’t want to, but I took their word for it and bought four of those plugs. I’ve been through so much bullshit with crap parts in my life (VW and domestic) that I don’t much care for any parts store aside from The Bus Depot and people who carry Bosch (Don’t get me started on Auburn Hills, Michigan). I particularly distrust this store, but I had no choice. So when the problems came back this afternoon I put in the Champion plugs (the Bosch platinums were indeed saturated, not just carboned-up), but performance stayed the same if not worsened. What Champion plugs would be correct? This is the last thing I need to worry about at this point. So, what I have not done - two things I can think of. I have not taken off the catalytic converter. Last time I changed the muffler (two years and 40K miles back), I looked at it and the element looked great. It doesn’t appear like a cat that would plug up easily, but those bolts are a bitch and I don’t look forward to fighting with them again. I could put on the cat from the junk vanagon, but don’t know its condition yet. Would a period of running rich clog up the cat on a Waterboxer? (I know it would on some other vehicles). I also have not checked to see if the fuel pressure regulator has gone bad. How common is that possibility? A few folks I know, without VW experience, think this would never happen, an over-pressurized fuel system, but I read about it here. Ok, one last bit of back-story. After a year of owning the van, I turned it on one day to hear what sounded to me like a bad lifter, like on an older American car on a cold morning, a clanging that would go away after a few minutes, except this wouldn’t go away. I brought over my then mechanic, he agreed I probably shouldn’t drive it, and I left the van with him for the winter to figure it out. He had it for five months and didn’t do a single thing. I’d call once in awhile to see if he even got the hatch open yet, but nothing. The day before I got back to my home town he told me he’d have it done in a week. (He was also replacing a window for me, which he did do). He charged me $200 for supposedly rebuilding the rocker arms, but I don’t think he did anything at all because for another year and a half after that the clanging sound would return about once every three months for a day or two. I have had compression checks done (I don't have a timing light, a tachometer, or a pressure tester), which indicated three cylinders at 130 psi and good old number 3 at 115, which didn't seem to be a problem. Now, though. Yesterday I went to another import place, the nice guy there didn't have much time to help me but he did do a compression check and found the same numbers except now #1 is at 100 psi. And there is a definite bit of an unhappy sound (a ticking sort-of sound) inside the motor, which has possibly been increasing. One final small symptom is that there is a quite small exhaust leak at the rear left pipe. I can't hear it, but when there is smoke in the exhaust I can see a little smoke coming out of this area. So I'm starting to worry that this motor's day has come. I don't know what to do at this point, and any suggestions would be appreciated. Change the catalytic converter? Change the fuel pressure regulator? Buy a new car? No, that option is not on the table. Every time I wake up in my Westfalia, it's all worth it.

Since I wrote that I have tested the fuel pressure, which is good at 29 and 36. I switched out one of the fuel pump relays because something was loose inside relay 'C', but I don't know if the ones I switched in are working. After the fuel pressure check I drove around for an hour; everything was working great. Started fine as many times as I wanted. I let it sit for about six hours, and now it won't run at all; it will start OK but then cut out immediately. I've been wanting to get it to all the way hot to re-test the Temp Sensor II at a high temp, but right now I can't get it to run at all and I am out of ideas.... I'm still wondering about the catalytic, but I don't think that is the problem.

__________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.