Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 17:50:00 -0700
Reply-To: wilden1@JUNO.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustment
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
#6) adjusting your lifters: (this section applies only to hydraulic
lifters and stock VW camshafts)
Lifter adjustment should be done on a cold engine.
Locate Top Dead Center on #1 cylinder by dropping a thin wire through the
#1 spark plug hole and rotating the engine until piston top squeezes the
thin wire between the piston top and the cylinder head (don’t force it)
the rotor arm should be pointing very close to the notch in your
distributor rim if you’re at TDC. If not you’re 180 degrees off. While
you're adjusting the valves inspect the valve stems for chips and the
adjusting screws for heavy pitting. Either of these signs can represent a
weak / bad lifter or a valve seat that is loose. (minor pitting of
adjusting screws OK most of the time.)
Adjust #1 valves at the following settings.
Option #1: One full turn down from the point that the rocker arm just
touches the valve stem.
Option #2: Using a feeler gauge set the clearance to .006 as the rocker
arm just touches the valve stem.
Both settings have worked for me and many others. Do Not Use the full two
turns as described in Hayes, Muir or Bentley Manuals.
#1. Remove the valve covers. Read the part number on your heads, make
sure that they are the same.
VW heads will have a VW Logo on them, AMC heads will not and they won't
have a part number. The one thing you need to establish is that are both
VW or both AMC. You can't mix the heads, they should be the same.
#2. Loosen the adjusting nuts about two full turns.
#3. Start the engine for about 1 minute. Be sure you've got some
cardboard under there to catch any oil that slings out. Most cases there
will be very little.
#4. Go to the back of the car and slip another piece of cardboard under
there so I don't lay in the oil that dripped.
#5. Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC, Remove #1 Plug, I use a flashlight and a
piece of flat steel that comes off windshield wiper blades to get TDC.
(others use a screwdriver or coat hanger wire) The steel will not rotate
when the piston is at TDC but it doesn't bind the piston. (depends on
your piston/head clearance)
#6. I rotate my distributor so the notch in the distributor rim is right
in line with the rotor arm.
#7. I adjust the first #1 intake and exhaust valves to one turn after the
rocker arm just touches the valve stem. Or use Bobs way of .006 with a
feeler gauge (you are eliminating pre load by using his method, nothing
wrong with it).
#8. Since I've got a manual transmission I put the gearbox in 2nd gear
and rock the car until the next cylinder comes up to TDC, I watch the
rotor arm and when it is 90 degrees past the notch and first position I
set the next valves. (leave the spark plugs in, only #1 needs to be
removed)
#9. While all this is going on the sealer that sticks my new valve cover
gaskets to the valve covers is setting.
#10. Just follow through on each cylinder until you've got them all set.
#11. Check the general condition of your valve stems (no chips) and your
adjusting screws (few tiny pits OK, but no chips or hard wear signs).
#12. Reinstall your valve covers.
#13. Crank your engine, pay attention to the oil light, if it doesn't
come on immediately stop cranking and then crank again.
#14. Your engine may be noisy for as long as 15 minutes, don't panic.
Just take a gentle trip around the block and it will normally settle in.
#15. I don't bleed the lifters, I've never to my knowledge had air locked
lifters. If the above procedure doesn't quieten your lifters then you
could possibly have the air locked problem. If you do you'll just have to
follow the procedures in the Bentley or get info from Boston Bob about
the bleeding procedure.
#16. I made a tool consisting of a wood dowel with a finish nail in the
end of it so I could bleed the lifters, pushing it down in the relief
valve releases pressure in the lifter but I envisioned it as introducing
air into the lifters and could never see that it did anything. It could
be an option if you decide to try it.
#7) After adjusting the valves your engine may be hard to start. Give it
a few tries and it should start up. The lifters may be noisy for a few
minutes and this can continue for fifteen minutes. I’ve found that a
quick trip around the block at moderate normal speeds will normally
quieten the lifters after the adjustment process.
#8) Clean all electrical connections in your engine compartment. You can
use spray Berryman B12 or other spray carburetor cleaner. Agitate the
cleaner with a brush at each connection and then give it a shot of
cleaner to rinse out the residue.
#9) Inspect the condition of your Distributor Cap (Air Cooled Require
Copper Contacts, Water Cooled can use either Aluminum or Copper). Inspect
your Rotor Arm for burnt contractor end. Inspect you spark plug wire (Air
Cooled Require solid core, Water Cooled Require Graphite Fiber Wires).
Clean all connectors in the cap, spark coil and wire to plug. It is best
to have all Bosch brand ignition but other brands are good as long as
they meet the required contractor requirements. If you have a point set
ignition the points should be inspected and adjusted to .016/. 020, this
will get you within the required dwell range. Rule: Dwell changes timing
so if you change dwell you’ll need to reset your timing. Be sure that the
right spark plugs are installed.
#10) Set your timing as specified by the manual you are using for
reference. Take special care to check the timing at the full advance
specified. While progressing from idle timing setting to the full advance
setting the advance should be constant without dropping back and forth
during the increase of engine speed. The timing mark on the Air Cooled is
a small saw cut in the rim of the Fan, it is difficult to see and a drop
of Liquid Paper or white paint will be a big assist in sighting it with
the timing light.
#11) Replace your fuel filter, don’t pass this up just because the PO
said it had a new filter. The Berryman or other Fuel Injection may have
loosened up ancient contamination in your fuel tank and started blocking
the filter with debris.
#12) Test your fuel pressure at the fuel rail per specifications of the
manual you are using.
#13) Visually check all fuel lines for leaks. Replace any leaking lines
or lines that are hard, have splits or any aging signs.
#14) Check all vacuum lines for leaks, replace all lines that are soft,
split or have loose connection. Installing hose clamps on vacuum lines is
a good idea.
On Fri, 6 Jun 2003 13:10:42 -0700 John Schaper <JSchaper@SCHSA.ORG>
writes:
> I went back about 2 years in the Archives to find a step-by-step
> idiot's
> guide to adjusting valves for 1.9 WBX. But I couldn't find what
> appear to
> me to be an idiot's guide. Does anyone have or direct me to such a
> step by
> step procedure for this?
>
>
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