Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 12:32:44 -0400
Reply-To: Jay L Snyder <Jay.L.Snyder@USA.DUPONT.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jay L Snyder <Jay.L.Snyder@USA.DUPONT.COM>
Subject: Re: Air Flow Meter;
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I still say the best way to check out your AFM is to slowly increase the
engine speed with your foot on the pedal and see if you can hold it steady
at various speeds. My old AFM would not. The new one does. And yes, I
have taken the top off of brand new AFM to tinker with it. It is easily
reset to the original setting. Very easy to go a little richer or leaner
by adjusting the spring tension.
Jay
zampano <matthias.k@ATTBI.COM>@gerry.vanagon.com> on 06/06/2003 12:11:44 PM
Please respond to zampano <matthias.k@ATTBI.COM>
Sent by: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
cc:
Subject: Re: Air Flow Meter;
I just got one from BD, new Bosch unit for $280.00. Can't beat that!!!
It was for my 84 WBX Man Wolfy with a deadbeat engine/head rebuild done
by a Southern California deadbeat shop, (but that's another story:)
Why do you suspect the AFM???
In fault finding, the AFM and/or ECU are the last ones to be the
culprit, if they are, it means you'll find out only after you checked
and ruled out any other possible problems involving Digifant/Digijet,
the ignition and fuel supply. PITA.
The static test in the Bentley might tell you your AFM is still "good"
since it is a limited test. It did so with mine, even though it was
bad, bad, bad.
You can dig up my hodgepodge with the AFM in the archives, last month
or so.
Happy Trails for the weekend everyone
Cheers
matthias
On Friday, June 6, 2003, at 08:13 am, Doktor Tim wrote:
> At 07:46 AM 06/06/2003, you wrote:
>
>> At 10:22 AM 6/6/2003, John C. wrote:
>>> Does anyone know if the (VW) air flow meter cap,
>>> is supposed to just pop off?
>>> I`m prying kinda hard,
>>> & it`s not budging! :)
>>
>> They're a very light press fit -- grooved top fits over the aluminum
>> lip. But they're also sealed with a very tenacious silicone RTV.
>
>
> What this proves is they were not designed to be serviceable, which is
> what
> it says in the Bentley and which is why Bosch Corp offers no
> remanufactured
> units for them. When the spring starts to soften or the fuel pump
> points
> get worn or the reference tracks and pickups get worn or corroded, the
> only
> factory fix is to replace it. That is a hard pill to swallow. I just
> priced
> one for early Vanagon air cooled and list is $475. At my cost I can
> only
> knock about $50 off that. But it is the 10 to 20 year solution.
>
> Can't fault those who know better and invest tinkering time with no or
> short range results, then spend the actual money for an actual fix.
> Used
> from a junker is an alternative however don't pay a dime for such
> without
> first confirming the static tests given in Bentley. Of course, you
> should
> also run these tests on your own unit BEFORE removing the top for
> tinkering. Never pay a dime as well for any that have had the top
> removed
> for in many cases there the results will be nada.
>
> I do know that perfectly good AFM's get their tops pulled and tinkered
> with
> and turned into boat ballast. Shoot, $400 for no good reason is no way
> to
> care for your cost/mile over life.
>
> Verify per procedures given before opening your wallet.
>
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