Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 11:10:03 -0700
Reply-To: wilden1@JUNO.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustment
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
It is a safe assumption that when the rotor points to a cylinder that
the timing notch will be at the bottom or the top of the engine on the
back pulley.
----------------- Clip --------------------
I don't want flames but many Vanagon distributors are set in wrong, the
little springs are missing and the drive gears are not dropped in at the
right position.
I've been using a socket to turn bench test engines for a long time
........... no big deal, grind a notch and put a small bolt in it.
That valve adjustment thing was written for NEWBIES, because they are
often afraid to stick their finger in the spark plug hole to catch the
piston coming up on the compression stroke.
If you have any modifications to the page please send them
............... I'm flexible; or you can start responding to the
inquiries with your own methods. Bob Donalds has a similar info page and
I've refereed many to his site.
The way I build my engines with .028 piston to head clearance the flat
stainless strip from windshield wiper blades works very good in #1
cylinder and eliminates pulling the other plugs, it is just the right
thickness to squeeze but not stop the piston from completing its stroke.
The many very crappy engines that I rebuild always have a little valve /
lifter noise on startup.
Stan
On Mon, 9 Jun 2003 08:38:33 -0700 gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM> writes:
> Stan,
> Some well written words on adjusting valves, a job
> most people can do but perhaps will only have to do
> when they are doing there heads.
> I do not think that you need to stick anything into
> the cylinder to find TDC. It is a safe assumption
> that when the rotor points to a cylinder that the
> timing notch will be at the bottm or the top of the
> engine on the back pulley. There is a nut back there
> that can be used to turn the motor over if you have a
> socket big enough to fit or loosely fit.
> Also if your lifters are very good, you should not
> experience any lifter noise at startup. The engine
> may sound odd at first startup but should sound good
> within a minute or two as the lifters find there new
> positions. gary
> Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 17:50:00 -0700
> From: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
> Subject: Re: Valve Adjustment
>
> #6) adjusting your lifters: (this section applies only
> to hydraulic
> lifters and stock VW camshafts)
> Lifter adjustment should be done on a cold engine.
> Locate Top Dead Center on #1 cylinder by dropping a
> thin wire through
> the
> #1 spark plug hole and rotating the engine until
> piston top squeezes
> the
> thin wire between the piston top and the cylinder head
> (don?t force it)
> the rotor arm should be pointing very close to the
> notch in your
> distributor rim if you?re at TDC. If not you?re 180
> degrees off. While
> you're adjusting the valves inspect the valve stems
> for chips and the
> adjusting screws for heavy pitting. Either of these
> signs can represent
> a
> weak / bad lifter or a valve seat that is loose.
> (minor pitting of
> adjusting screws OK most of the time.)
> Adjust #1 valves at the following settings.
> Option #1: One full turn down from the point that the
> rocker arm just
> touches the valve stem.
> Option #2: Using a feeler gauge set the clearance to
> .006 as the rocker
> arm just touches the valve stem.
> Both settings have worked for me and many others. Do
> Not Use the full
> two
> turns as described in Hayes, Muir or Bentley Manuals.
> #1. Remove the valve covers. Read the part number on
> your heads, make
> sure that they are the same.
> VW heads will have a VW Logo on them, AMC heads will
> not and they won't
> have a part number. The one thing you need to
> establish is that are
> both
> VW or both AMC. You can't mix the heads, they should
> be the same.
> #2. Loosen the adjusting nuts about two full turns.
> #3. Start the engine for about 1 minute. Be sure
> you've got some
> cardboard under there to catch any oil that slings
> out. Most cases
> there
> will be very little.
> #4. Go to the back of the car and slip another piece
> of cardboard under
> there so I don't lay in the oil that dripped.
> #5. Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC, Remove #1 Plug, I use
> a flashlight and
> a
> piece of flat steel that comes off windshield wiper
> blades to get TDC.
> (others use a screwdriver or coat hanger wire) The
> steel will not
> rotate
> when the piston is at TDC but it doesn't bind the
> piston. (depends on
> your piston/head clearance)
> #6. I rotate my distributor so the notch in the
> distributor rim is
> right
> in line with the rotor arm.
> #7. I adjust the first #1 intake and exhaust valves to
> one turn after
> the
> rocker arm just touches the valve stem. Or use Bobs
> way of .006 with a
> feeler gauge (you are eliminating pre load by using
> his method, nothing
> wrong with it).
> #8. Since I've got a manual transmission I put the
> gearbox in 2nd gear
> and rock the car until the next cylinder comes up to
> TDC, I watch the
> rotor arm and when it is 90 degrees past the notch and
> first position I
> set the next valves. (leave the spark plugs in, only
> #1 needs to be
> removed)
> #9. While all this is going on the sealer that sticks
> my new valve
> cover
> gaskets to the valve covers is setting.
> #10. Just follow through on each cylinder until you've
> got them all
> set.
> #11. Check the general condition of your valve stems
> (no chips) and
> your
> adjusting screws (few tiny pits OK, but no chips or
> hard wear signs).
> #12. Reinstall your valve covers.
> #13. Crank your engine, pay attention to the oil
> light, if it doesn't
> come on immediately stop cranking and then crank
> again.
> #14. Your engine may be noisy for as long as 15
> minutes, don't panic.
> Just take a gentle trip around the block and it will
> normally settle
> in.
> #15. I don't bleed the lifters, I've never to my
> knowledge had air
> locked
> lifters. If the above procedure doesn't quieten your
> lifters then you
> could possibly have the air locked problem. If you do
> you'll just have
> to
> follow the procedures in the Bentley or get info from
> Boston Bob about
> the bleeding procedure.
> #16. I made a tool consisting of a wood dowel with a
> finish nail in the
> end of it so I could bleed the lifters, pushing it
> down in the relief
> valve releases pressure in the lifter but I envisioned
> it as
> introducing
> air into the lifters and could never see that it did
> anything. It could
> be an option if you decide to try it.
> #7) After adjusting the valves your engine may be hard
> to start. Give
> it
> a few tries and it should start up. The lifters may be
> noisy for a few
> minutes and this can continue for fifteen minutes.
> I?ve found that a
> quick trip around the block at moderate normal speeds
> will normally
> quieten the lifters after the adjustment process.
> #8) Clean all electrical connections in your engine
> compartment. You
> can
> use spray Berryman B12 or other spray carburetor
> cleaner. Agitate the
> cleaner with a brush at each connection and then give
> it a shot of
> cleaner to rinse out the residue.
> #9) Inspect the condition of your Distributor Cap (Air
> Cooled Require
> Copper Contacts, Water Cooled can use either Aluminum
> or Copper).
> Inspect
> your Rotor Arm for burnt contractor end. Inspect you
> spark plug wire
> (Air
> Cooled Require solid core, Water Cooled Require
> Graphite Fiber Wires).
> Clean all connectors in the cap, spark coil and wire
> to plug. It is
> best
> to have all Bosch brand ignition but other brands are
> good as long as
> they meet the required contractor requirements. If you
> have a point set
> ignition the points should be inspected and adjusted
> to .016/. 020,
> this
> will get you within the required dwell range. Rule:
> Dwell changes
> timing
> so if you change dwell you?ll need to reset your
> timing. Be sure that
> the
> right spark plugs are installed.
> #10) Set your timing as specified by the manual you
> are using for
> reference. Take special care to check the timing at
> the full advance
> specified. While progressing from idle timing setting
> to the full
> advance
> setting the advance should be constant without
> dropping back and forth
> during the increase of engine speed. The timing mark
> on the Air Cooled
> is
> a small saw cut in the rim of the Fan, it is difficult
> to see and a
> drop
> of Liquid Paper or white paint will be a big assist in
> sighting it with
> the timing light.
> #11) Replace your fuel filter, don?t pass this up just
> because the PO
> said it had a new filter. The Berryman or other Fuel
> Injection may have
> loosened up ancient contamination in your fuel tank
> and started
> blocking
> the filter with debris.
> #12) Test your fuel pressure at the fuel rail per
> specifications of the
> manual you are using.
> #13) Visually check all fuel lines for leaks. Replace
> any leaking lines
> or lines that are hard, have splits or any aging
> signs.
> #14) Check all vacuum lines for leaks, replace all
> lines that are soft,
> split or have loose connection. Installing hose clamps
> on vacuum lines
> is
> a good idea.
> On Fri, 6 Jun 2003 13:10:42 -0700 John Schaper
> <JSchaper@SCHSA.ORG>
> writes:
> > I went back about 2 years in the Archives to find a
> step-by-step
> > idiot's
> > guide to adjusting valves for 1.9 WBX. But I
> couldn't find what
> > appear to
> > me to be an idiot's guide. Does anyone have or
> direct me to such a
> > step by
> > step procedure for this?
> >
>
>
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