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Date:         Tue, 17 Jun 2003 10:23:27 -0400
Reply-To:     Jay L Snyder <Jay.L.Snyder@USA.DUPONT.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jay L Snyder <Jay.L.Snyder@USA.DUPONT.COM>
Subject:      Re: Radiator fan dead?
Comments: To: SStones <sstones@IDIRECT.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

To simply test the fan motor, turn on your AC. It should run the fan on low regardless of the radiator temperature. Otherwise, proceed as below.

Jay

SStones <sstones@IDIRECT.COM>@gerry.vanagon.com> on 06/17/2003 10:11:12 AM

Please respond to SStones <sstones@IDIRECT.COM>

Sent by: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>

To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM cc: Subject: Re: Radiator fan dead?

If you have a Bentley, Follow along on page 97.116. If not, I hope I'm writing this clearly.

First off, if it had worked on High and now isn't working, check Fuse S1. It's responsible for power to both motor leads and the relay. If the fuse is good, then pull the connector off the back of your thermo-switch and check that one of the leads definately has power. (The switch is on the back side of the of the radiator edge, near the bottom on the drivers' side if it's the same as my 85). If your wires match Bentley's it'll be red with white stripe that should be +12V. If that IS +12VDC, (It should be, I can't imagine it burning out between the fuse and the switch, nothing to cause it to constantly flex) jumper it directly to the red with black stripe wire coming out of the thermo switch.(With your fingers and hair AWAY from the fan blades.) Vroom, there goes the fan motor on low speed... Now jumper all three of those thermoswitch wires together, VROOM high speed. If that works, you've proven that the fan motor is working perfectly. If the first jumper did NOT make the fan go on low speed, NOR did the all three jumper make it go on at any speed, but the jumpered wires are definately live +12VDC, remove the jumpers and leave the connector off the thermoswitch (Safety). You'll get back to it after checking the motor ground. Okay, look. I'm not saying you're stupid, but I'm gonna throw in this warning anyway, it's just good practice. "When working in and around the fan, don't let your hair, fingers or clothes get in the blades as it might come on at any time, if some previous owner has done something I'm not accounting for". There, now we're all insulted, but we have 10 fingers on each hand. :) Pull the brown wire's connector off of the fan motor and check that it is in fact grounded. (Ground 30 is under relay panel... That one over your left foot where everything in the van (And your neighbor's porch light) all seem to ground. If that connector seems to be a crappy ground, replace it and it's wire to a better grounding point, hell make one up in the front of the van and give ground point 30 a break. :) While you're at the fan motor's connectors, have a look at each of them, make sure they're clean.

Okay, now back to the previous paragraphs. If Jumpering Red/White to Red Black on the thermo switch DID get you low speed fan, AND The all-three jumpering DID get you High Speed fan. Clean the terminals and put the connector back on the switch. Drive it around the block to heat it up and then let it idle in your driveway up to the temperature where you'd be darn sure the fan ought to be on. If it is now working again, the terminals just wanted a little cleaning. If not, take a break to let things cool back down for a while, have a beer, it prevents frustration from overcoming the job at hand. Write me back (Or the whole list) with the outcome of these various trials and I'll be happy to take another crack at it. But I'm expecting that we'll have found the problem by now, and I don't want to suggest replacing a thermoswitch, rad-fan relay or anything yet. Best of luck, Dude. I hope the next e-mail you send us says it's fixed. And Yes, you can directly apply 12V across the fan motor to test it, but doing it at the thermoswitch connector is a safer distance.

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