Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 09:47:41 -0500
Reply-To: John Rodgers <j_rodgers@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <j_rodgers@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: Window Tint Nightmare :(
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Leo, it's been a while since I looked at my tint job closely, but I just
did. I have Llumar metal sputtered film on my 88 GL. It was installed in
1999 and is as good as new - both the film and the installation. It was
done at Artistic Solar Films, Hoover, AL (205) 823-8468 (shameless plug
- my son's shop), a professional tint shop, doing automotive,
residential, commercial, industrial and military installations.
That being said, the tint has a 1/16" or less light band around the
perimeter of all fixed windows including the moving portion on the
sliding windows. Around the handles and locks on the glass, there is a
band that is a bit wider - about 1/4 inch. On the driver and passenger
windows, the margins of the tint on the glass are 1/8" at the top, 1/16"
on the fore and aft edge and no margin at the bottom. The tint at the
bottom extends below the rubber lip of the window frame.
There are no torn or crinkled edges or corners - nor should there be.
Unacceptable.
Air bubbles - none in my tint job. However, metal sputtered tint has a
glue on the tint that is wetted, and that is what adheres the tint to
the glass. When the glue is wet, the water activates it after it is put
in place, and it will appear at times for all the world that there are
"air" bubbles under the tint, when infact it is glue/water bubbles. if
the tint is properly smoothed and a sqeegee applied sugfficiently there
will be no adverse effect, and the water/glue bubble will disappearover
a period of days as the glue cures.
The windows are not to be operated at all for up to 5 days or so after
installation - depending on whether its winter or summer because to do
so would peel the tint right off the window. When the tint installation
is done, the rubber gaskets at the bottom of the window will probably be
tuned inward. This is the result of working the tint down below the
sill. Do not mess with that. It is proper and is corrected after the
tint glue cures. Once sufficient curing time has passed, use a credit
card or other plastic card, and beginning at the corner of the window
work the card down into the seal and pull up and outward and across. The
seal should pop up. Then the window can be lowered or raised.
For cleaning of window tint mix a couple of tablespoons of Johnsons baby
shampoo into a quart of water, put into a spray bottle, shake well, and
spritz the tint surface. Wipe with a clean dry cloth like a T-shirt or
diaper. Nothing more course. ABSOLUTELY DO NOT USE ANY AMMONIA BASED
SPRAY!!!! It will kill your tint. Ammonia removed the oils and
plasticizers from the tint and it will become brittle, loose it light
reduction qualities, and come apart on your glass.
I have done a lot of installations myself in my sons shop. I hope this
helps.
BTW, in the beginning, the tint cutting was done by laying the tint on
the glass and doing the cutting on the glass - cutting it out by hand -
using the window as a pattern. Automotive glass is soft, and often
scratching would occur. Now-a-days my son uses automated tent cutters
and software to drive it. A tint knife never touches a vehicle any more.
The software describes each vehicle (size and shape info from the
manufacturers) and tells the cutting machine how to cut the tint. Even
so, there are some vehicles that are not listed, such as Vanagons, and
the old style tint installation skills are called upon to cut and fit
the tint.
Regards,
John Rodgers
88 GL Driver
Lee Roesner wrote:
>They are now on their 4th try on tinting my windows...first two tries where
>only the side windows which I pulled to do some minor body work...so I gave
>them to do pulled. Said they can do a better job pulled (guy has 20 years
>experience). They tried twice...either bubbled next day or air bubbles
>or...whatever?? Said its difficult to do with the windows laying flat. OK.
>So body work work is done now and windows where put back in (oops,,,rear
>vents put in backwards...take back and pull windows again and reverse). Da.
>Take van back to window tint place....oops, out of tint. Take back the next
>week. Two days later....stop in to pick up van... First glance, looks great.
>Second glance...looking from one side through to the other...I can see light
>coming in around a few windows...closer look. Could be as much as 1/8" here
>and there. Looked at drivers window. More light here and there. Looks like
>it was almost cut freehand. What the F#@k. I can do a better job. Owner of
>tint place said...oh shit...now he's going to have to do it over...not
>acceptable. No sh#t.
>
>(Wait, let me get more Kleenex)...
>
>This whole time I have been cool and calm and repeatedly said..."take your
>time...no hurry. Really. Just do it right".
>
>So now today will be there 4th try. Am I a good guy or what? I am so
>patient...so f#@king patient.
>
>So with that said...I called them this morning and left message that I will
>not accept job if I see so much as a bubble for crack of light. Job must be
>inspected by the owner. If they do not agree with this they can remove the
>tint and give me back my van and we each go our own way.
>
>If any of you have your windows tinted...do you have any light coming in
>anywhere...how good a job can I expect? From the jobs I've seen I have never
>seen broken corners or any light what so ever. Let me know. I am to pick up
>van tonight.
>
>Thanks for listening...
>
>Lee :(
>
>
>-----------
>Lee Roesner
>Paradigm Graphic Design & Web Development
>710-B Landwehr Road
>Northbrook, IL 60062
>
>Phone 847-509-8704
>Fax 847-480-5701
>PORTFOLIO: http://www.roesner.net
>THE B WORD: http://www.thebword.com/vw
>
>
>
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