Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 21:59:56 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject: Re: (Fwd) Re: Help With 110 Volt A/C BTU Requirement Sought
In-Reply-To: <3F257FE6.8922.AE99029@localhost>
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Stick it on the front luggage rack with a few blocks of wood to set the
height and let it blow into the front opening. A curtain of some sort
could be made to seal the opening to the AC. The AC condensate will
drain out the luggage rack drains.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf
Of tom ring
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 9:56 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: (Fwd) Re: Help With 110 Volt A/C BTU Requirement Sought
BTW, how would one adapt a window AC unit to work on a westy, anyway?
This
might be a new project to put on the list. :)
tom
On 28 Jul 2003 at 19:25, tom ring wrote:
> Well, a 1500 watt heater will keep my van at 70F at the top of the
fridge with
> the top popped with a 20F outside temp. 65 with 5 below and 40 mph
wind and
> the top down during a blizzard. I think it actually does a bit better
than
> that, but let's be conservative. 1500 watts is 5100 BTU. Given that
warmer
> air rises, and cooler air sinks, you should have a bit of an advantage
with
> less heat gain in the summer vs more heat loss in the winter due to
the pop
> top. Roll in the humid air that you are squeezing the water out of
will
> account for some cooling you won't see, and let's say the SWAG is a
wash.
>
> So back of the envelope estimate says, if you're in the shade with the
top
> popped, you should be able to be able to cool to about 50 below
ambient with a
> 5000 BTU AC. Which should draw about 500 watts with a 10.0 EER. 3000
BTU
> might be good enough.
>
> The 85 in the sun, I can't estimate. Depends a lot on on how much
your paint
> color absorbs infrared, sun angle, curtains, etc. Park the right
direction,
> and you help things a lot.
>
> tom
>
> On 28 Jul 2003 at 19:13, Derek Drew wrote:
>
> > Has anyone actually calculated or experienced how many BTUs are
required to
> > make a Westfalia 70 degrees inside via a 110 volt connection to an
air
> > conditioner at say, the average of 100 degrees in the shade or 85
degrees in
> > the sun? This would be with the poptop up and some air leakage
through the
> > canvass.
> >
> > I would like the option to bring along a 110 volt air conditioner
for temporary
> > installation in the luggage rack for use while camping, and if I
could solve
> > this soon it will save some hotel bills which add up fast.
> >
> > There was some list discussion about tiny 110 volt units at Home
Depot so now I
> > have acquired an interest in a tiny 110 volt A/C unit but not sure
how tiny is
> > too tiny. I figured that the tiniest unit made would be good, but
don't know
> > where to get such a unit or who has looked into this.
> >
> > Please report to us if you have conducted such research.
> >
> > This is for use when the motor is off.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Derek Drew
> > CEO & Co-Founder
> > ConsumerSearch, Inc.
> > New York, NY & Washington DC
> > derekdrew@rcn.com
> > 202-966-7907
> > (cell) 703-408-1532
> >
> > http://www.ConsumerSearch.com/
> > Time Magazine, June 19, 2003
> > "50 Best Websites"
> >
> >
>
>
> ------
> Tom Ring K0TAR, ex-WA2PHW EN34hx
> 85 Westphalia GL Albert
> 96 Jetta GL The Intimidator
> taring@taring.org
>
> "It is better to go into a turn slow, and come out fast, than to go
into a turn
> fast
> and come out dead." Stirling Moss
>
------
Tom Ring K0TAR, ex-WA2PHW EN34hx
85 Westphalia GL Albert
96 Jetta GL The Intimidator
taring@taring.org
"It is better to go into a turn slow, and come out fast, than to go into
a turn fast
and come out dead." Stirling Moss
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