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Date:         Tue, 22 Jul 2003 14:32:30 +0000
Reply-To:     maurio11@COMCAST.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Maurio <maurio11@COMCAST.NET>
Subject:      Re: Oil change frequency?
Comments: To: John Rodgers <j_rodgers@CHARTER.NET>

Is there a part number or measurements for the copper crush gaskets? Can I get them at my FLAPS? My bus depot order should be in today, and was planning on changing the oil tonight.

Thanks, David / NJ 85 Wolfsburg Westy > Don, > > Do yourself a favor, change the oil now, in the beginning, and get it > right the first time!! Now what do I mean by that?? > > Well, related to oil, and the hydraulic valve lifters, the Vanagon has a > "Syndrome". One day you are going to start the engine and you are going > to hear this awful clattering, clacking sound that seemed to just > suddenly start. It is terrifying to the first time owner because the > first thing you think of is "Oh no, I have a rod knocking and my engine > is going to fail" or something similarly expensive to fix. It is > inevitable. > > Well, relax, it is only "The Vanagon Lifter Syndrome". It just occurs at > random, there is no permanent fix but it can be minimized. > > What I am about to explain here is from my own experience and from the > accumulated operating experience of the many members of the Vanagon > List. Much is anecdotal, but it repeats itself over and over and over, > so even though some people have had variations in the experience, there

> is still a core of truth in it. So here goes. > > The lifters in the WBX engine tend to leak down their oil when the > valve train has pressure exerted on the system in a certain way when the > engine is shut down. Next time you start, the engine clatters like crazy > until it has run a while and the lifters have pumped back up. It is > related to having the right viscosity oil and an oil filter which has > the correct internal relief valve spring pressure. > > To reduce the occurrence of the syndrome, you need a bottle of Marvels > Mystery Oil (MMO), a Mahle or Mann Oil filter (I prefer the Mahle - get > Mahle or Mann from our list vendors), and 20W50 wt Dino oil, or 15W50 > Mobil 1 Synthetic. You also need to change oil on schedule religiously. > I change mine at 3000 miles. > > The Mann or Mahle filters have the correct relief valve spring pressure. > With the engine off, the higher spring pressure holds the oil in the oil > galleries of the engine longer and thus keeps the lifters pumped longer.

> However, even they will leak down eventually, if the engine is not run. > How long that is, nobody knows, but an engine should be run and warmed > thoroughly at least once a week to ensure everything keeps a coat of > oil on it for protection if for no other reason. > > Oils - dinosaur oil in the 20W50 Wt or synthetics like Mobil 1 15W50 Wt > variety seems to work best for WBX. This seems to be the cumulative > experience of The List. Certainly for me. The exceptions to that come > from our esteemed membership living in colder climates, and is usually > related to winter operations in those colder climates. When the outside > temperature is Zero or below, you certainly want to consider another > weight oil. However, I will say this, engines have an operating > temperature range, summer or winter, and it is the effects of oils at > startup in cold conditions that you want to consider. Once the engine is > warm it's needs the protection of the right oil for the clearances

> involved regardless of outside temperatures. So an oil pre-heater may be > more in order than a change to a lower viscosity oil. As for me, until > recently I have always run the 20W50wt Dino oil year round. With 40,000 > miles now on a completely overhauled engine, I recently switched to > Mobil 1 15W50 Synthetic. My observation is that my oil consumption had > dropped and the engine seems to run a bit cooler in this Southern summer > heat. > > Marvel Mystery Oil: (the additive) This is truly Marvelous (pun > intended) stuff. It has been around a long time, and is a must for the > Vanagon owner. It is a cleaner, and is a good fuel additive to keep the > fuel system and injectors free of any build ups and when added to the > oil helps keep the lifters spotlessly clean and free of any buildups or > debris that could cause those little precision machined components in > the lifters to stick or plug up and contribute to the lifter syndrome. > MMO added to the oil 200-300 miles in advance of an oil change helps

> give the oil system a good cleaning. > > As far as Marvels is concerned, there is also Marvels Mystery Oil that > is a penetrating oil. I keep a bottle of that in my vehicle in my tool > kit. I learned about it years ago from some old time aircraft mechanics > that swore by it. Now I do to. When something is stuck, a screw, a nut, > or what have you, an overnight soak in Marvels Penetrating oil will > nearly always loosen it up when nothing else will. > > You might want to consider changing your own oil in the future. With the > proper tools, it takes 15 minutes. If you are using a Mahle filter, the > end is shaped like a big nut. Walmart sells a filter tool wrench that is > like a humongous socket that fits right on that filter nut shape. The > Walmart tool takes a 3/8" drive. That, plus a flat pan that looks like a > big plastic jug that has been flattened a bit on the side (Walmart, also > in the oil section) makes oil changing a snap. That drain pan has two

> holes with plugs on the upper side for the oil to drain into. No more > having to fish the filter or the drain plug out of the oil drain pan. > When the oil is drained, put the plugs in, haul it to the nearest oil > dump and discharge from the container. Simple as that. To change our > own oil or for any one else to do it, you MUST use copper crush gaskets > under the head of the drain plug. If you don't, or the Quickie Oil > Change folk don't (and most don't because they don't have the right size > - Vanagons are so odd and non-standard) trying to tighten the plug to > prevent leakage will ultimately strip the threads out of the engine > case. THAT is a very severe PITA to fix and get right. Get the gaskets > from the list vendors - when you order your filters. > > BTW, when you buy filters, I suggest you get at least 4 at a time. Oil > changes are an ongoing thing, and they will always be needed, and on > hand when you need them. > > Enjoy your new vehicle!! > > Regards, > > John Rodgers > 88 GL Driver > >

> Don Spence wrote: > > >As you can probably tell I'm a new owner with lots of newby questions.... > >so, How often should you change the oil in the 1.9 wbx? > > > >Seems also that everyone lists there car "collection" as part of the > >signature line so... here's my list. > > > >65 Jaguar 3.8 'S' Type (for sale) > >67 Triumph TR4A > >72 Triumph TR-6 > >83 Vanagon-L Westphalia > >84 Peugeot 505 STI > >99 Plymouth Grand Voyager > > > > > >


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