Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 16:14:10 -0600
Reply-To: tom ring <taring@TARING.ORG>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: tom ring <taring@TARING.ORG>
Organization: Tippen Ringware
Subject: Re: Update Re: MORE info Re: headlights not working after towing?
(still not working)
In-Reply-To: <3F2BE193.9844.23D7814C@localhost>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
And 1 more thing to check.
4 - Reconnect the headlamps, but make sure you can still get the the low and
bright connections. Check the voltage at the low and high connections with low
and high beam selected and the headlight switch on. If it's 12 volts and the
hedlight is not illuminated, the 1 of 2 things. Bad bulb or bad ground.
To check that situation -
5, yes 5 - With the headlight switch on, check the voltage at the spade ground
connection on the headlamp. If 12 (or so) it's a bad ground.
tom
On 2 Aug 2003 at 16:06, tom ring wrote:
> I would recommend 2 things. Excuse me if you've tried this, but looks like you
> were probably looking for light from the bulbs as your indicator.
>
> Connect the ground/negative lead from a multimeter to a known working ground.
> Use a long piece of 16 or so gauge wire to as an extension if needed.
> Disconnect both headlamps.
>
> 1 - Check the voltage at the high and low beam connections with low beam
> selected. Do both connectors. Write it down.
>
> 2 - Check the voltage at the high and low beam connections with high beam
> selected. Do both connectors. Write that down, too.
>
> No, not 2 things, 3, yes 3..... (Obligatory Monty Python reference)
>
> Now, turn off everything electrical that is possible. You should always do
> this before checking grounds, as currents through the ground circuit(s) can,
> and probably will, throw off the measurement, and may, but probably won't,
> damage your test equipment.
>
> 3 - check the impedance from the ground connection to the ground connection.
> This is to give you a reference on how much impedance your leads, esp if you
> added an extension to get to a good ground, are adding. Again, write it down.
> Check the impedance from your ground side on each of your headamp connectors.
> Write those down. (I really believe in keeping records, makes my poor memory
> less of a problem) Subtract the "ground to ground" impedance from the
> "connector to ground" impedance. This will give you a more accurate value of
> that connector+wiring harness ground impedance value.
>
> Hopefully the answers will help. If not, you know what the problem isn't.
>
>
>
> Anyone may feel free to ask me about any electrical/electronic problems, etc.
> anytime, on or off the list, whether vanagon or not. I'm an EE and a ham, and
> I currently work as a sysadmin and security guy at an ISP, so networking and
> unix questions are OK, too. No, not the one where this email originated. And
> if you have any win problems, please seek help elsewhere, thanks. Unless you
> want to run a real OS, Then I'll gladly help you install linux.
>
> tom
>
> On 2 Aug 2003 at 14:28, David Most wrote:
>
> > Thanks again to all have offered possible solutions. I still have NOT
> > solved the problem.
>
> <snip>
>
>
> ------
> Tom Ring K0TAR, ex-WA2PHW EN34hx
> 85 Westphalia GL Albert
> 96 Jetta GL The Intimidator
> taring@taring.org
>
> "It is better to go into a turn slow, and come out fast, than to go into a turn
> fast
> and come out dead." Stirling Moss
>
>
>
------
Tom Ring K0TAR, ex-WA2PHW EN34hx
85 Westphalia GL Albert
96 Jetta GL The Intimidator
taring@taring.org
"It is better to go into a turn slow, and come out fast, than to go into a turn fast
and come out dead." Stirling Moss
|