Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 09:44:24 -0700
Reply-To: Damon Campbell <damoncampbellvw@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Damon Campbell <damoncampbellvw@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: 2.3L WBX replies... (pretty darn long - again)
In-Reply-To: <20030814045239.30277.qmail@web13101.mail.yahoo.com>
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Thanks for all the input, everyone. It is nice to
hear a consensus of "don't rip it apart, yet!".
More information, and responses to some questions i
received:
0) specs - 82mm CW, balanced crank. Big-valve heads.
95mm pistons and cylinders (tops shaved by 0.14" to
maintain CR). Essentially stock cam, rockers, and
valve train. Pistons, rods, etc. statically balanced.
1) The starter is indeed the original starter in the
van. Never (ever) had a lick of problems with it.
2) Voltmeter across the starter when cranking? Well,
havn't done that, but with the original battery, and
my digitool, i saw the voltage drop down to about
9.5-ish.
3) I am running 10W30 castrol dino oil
4) I used the original german oil pump out of the 2.1
case. It looked to be in good condition, and i lapped
the face plate and pump to clean that up and close any
clearances. I also have a 30mm high flow pump that i
could use, but i am skeptical of the quality (it fits
waaay too easily into the oil pump bore).
5) Overheating? This is kind of an interesting one.
Mr. Digitool read 0.07V rock steady on the way to
santa cruz for it's maiden 50mile voyage. On the way
back, it read a rock steady 0.03V. The way back
seemed a bit low (hot), and the only engine difference
was that the timing was set correctly while at
volkscafe (it was about 18* advanced).
6) I unfortunately do not have CR as a known value.
It doesn't ping, but i *definitely* want to get that
figured out. I'm quite sure it is higher than stock
(i feel really lame not knowing it - but i was a
little bit rushed with the top end).
7) the combustion chamber was ceramic coated (heads,
piston tops, exhaust valves, and exhaust port), but no
friction-reducing stuff addedd. Unfortunately, there
was a miscommunication between me and the ceramicist
so no coating was put on the usuall pitting area, so
i'll just keep after it with the blue stuff and
frequent coolant flushings.
8) Bob Donalds honed the cylinders and opened up the
clearances a bit to let them run cooler and with a
little more longevity.
02 read normal, AFM, temp 1, and battery voltage all
read normal when rolling.
The mechanic at volkscafe was really concerned,
however, at how hard it was to crank over by hand when
hot.
I hope that sheds a little more light. Thanks for all
the input, and keep it coming because i really like
the way it drives, and don't want to tear it down for
somewhat esoteric problems.
Thank you oh mighty list,
-damon
--- Damon Campbell <damoncampbellvw@YAHOO.COM> wrote:
> However. And this is a *big* however, there are two
> problems...
> 1) When hot, even with a brand new battery, the
> engine simply won't crank over. At best, you may
> get
> 1/2 a lazy revolution. It cranks over and fires up
> cold with some difficulty, but it does.
> 2) Oil pressure is low (grrr...). When at full
> temp,
> idle is around 5psi and at say, 3000 rpm, we are
> closer to 20-25psi. These obviously aren't great.
> Not even close to good.
=====
'84 Westy (Sparky)
'65 Kharma Ghia (Dharma)
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