On Monday 25 Aug 2003 15:15, Tracy Bonin wrote: > Good Morning everyone, well this week isn't starting off so good, this > morning went to start the bus and no start. The battery is ok, there is > power. It won't crank the engine. I realize that means that it's either > the starter, the solinoid, or the ignition switch. I was hoping that > someone might know of any tell signs as to which one it could be. I > don't think that it's the ignition switch, because I had that replaced > about a year and a half ago, and I know that alot of my power options > (ie: lights, etc) weren't working properly when it went. I know with > some cars the solinoid will click if it's ok, but I couldn't be at the > front and the back of the bus to hear it while trying to start......... I've had this problem over the weekend, only with an refurbished starter and solenoid. I've spent the last 18 months intermittently knocking the starter with a hammer - via a broomstick stuck through the wheel arch and got fed up with it! The damn thing still won't start. 1 The earth connection is OK - a voltmeter from the battery to the body of the starter reads 14.5v. 2 The solenoid clicks happily, sometimes manages to crank the engine, somtimes doesn't. 3 A direct line from the battery (i.e. starter feed) to the solenoid terminal will start the engine (with the ignition switched on). My solution for this week (until I can come up with something more permanent): A link from the alternator feed to the solenoid via a flasher switch, which I've left sticking out of the engine compartment. If the engine starts from the ignition switch all's well and good. If not, I leave the ignition switched on, go round to the back of the bus and flick the temporary one to start the engine. If it won't start without a little extra gas, I just have to open the engine compartment, flick the switch and give gas from under there. I have no other electrical problems... so: could this be resolved by using the original feed from the ignition key to actuate a relay, which would - in turn - crank the engine via a secondary circuit like the temporary one I've set up? I don't fancy changing the ignition switch just for the sake of reduced power to one circuit. (How difficult is this to do, incidentally - in case I have no other option?) -- Tim PGP Key ID: 525e6a47 Available from http://pgp.mit.edu |
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