Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 10:47:54 -0500
Reply-To: John Rodgers <j_rodgers@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <j_rodgers@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: Clunk, Clunk Clunk in left rear
In-Reply-To: <169C871A-D656-11D7-980E-000393DB2980@knology.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
A clunk, clunk, clunk in a sharp turn is usually indicative of a CV
joint problem........either the bearing itself is giving up the ghost or
you have loose CV bolts, a malady that is, unfortuantely NOT all that
uncommon.
Get the rear end up off the ground and check both sides - inboard
bearing and outboard bearing assemblies. Easy enough to check the bolts
on the transmission drive flanges, more difficult on the axle flanges
because they are recessed into a box. Even if the bolt are loose on the
outboard side it may be hard to wiggle the axle by hand. But, under
load, the bearing will move if the bolts are not to spec. To retorque,
you will need a pointer type torque wrench - not a dial or break-over
type, and a 6 inch extension, as well the appropriate wrench - either a
6 point or 12 point allen head type, depending on what bolt head pattern
type you have. You will need to clean out the dirt socket for the allen
head wrench using a pointed pick tool. If you have no tears in a boot,
and there is no obvious wiggle in the CV, try retorquing first, then
drive it and see if your noise is gone or still there. If gone, you
found the problem, if there, you will need to pull the axles and replace
a bearing or two.
While you have it up on blocks it's a good time to pull the rear drums
and check the rear brakes for other mysterious noises, general wear and
drum, shoe, and brake cylinder condition. If the shoes are half gone,
replace, if the drums are badly grooved, have them turned and install
new shoes, if the cylinder shoes signs or leakage, install a seal kit or
replace the whole brake cylinder with a new one.
In removing the rear drums, there is a 14 mm hex head bolt that holds
the drum to the flange. Remove the bolt before you start. The bolt holds
the drum on the flange, after the wheel is removed. You cannot take the
drum off without removing the bolt. You DO NOT have to remove the axle
nut to remove the drum. Remove the hex bolt, and the drum will come off
over the flange. It may be tight, but applying a little propane heat,
and 200 taps per GM Bulley and the drum should come right off. Be sur
you back off the brake shoes a bit before you start the process, as this
will back the shoe away from the drum and provide clearance from any
wear grooves.
Good luck.
Regards,
John Rodgers
88 GL Driver
Felder wrote:
> Dear group,
>
> My 90 Carat had been going a bit soft in the brakes, and at the same
> time developing a clunk--synchronous with wheel speed--especially after
> a hard or sharp turn. My tire guy, my mechanic and I decided it must be
> a brake shoe banging around.
>
> Yesterday I replaced the rear shoes, cylinders, drums and brake fluid.
> Brakes are like new again, clunk went away... four a couple of hours.
> After I've put 15 miles or so on the car, the clunk is back. It doesn't
> do it all the time, but last night as I drove it I could hear it
> getting louder, again especially after making a turn. Strange that it
> went away after the wheel work!
>
> Anybody had anything like this? I ask because my VW specialist didn't
> say "oh, you need a new CV joint (or wheel bearing) when I had him look
> at this before, and I'd like any second opinions out there before I get
> my first from him on monday morning.
>
> I'm using the van this coming week to drive my daughter back to school
> in NYC. That's 2000 miles round trip. So, any opinions I could get
> would be appreciated as soon as I can get them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
>
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