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Date:         Wed, 24 Sep 2003 09:28:41 -0500
Reply-To:     John Rodgers <j_rodgers@CHARTER.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Rodgers <j_rodgers@CHARTER.NET>
Subject:      Re: Oil: 10w30? 20w50?
Comments: To: Wesley Alden Pegden <wes@CS.UCHICAGO.EDU>
In-Reply-To:  <Pine.LNX.4.44.0309240051140.29978-100000@maroon.cs.uchicago.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Wesley, the main reason for keeping the heavier oil throughout the year is that the engine lives at temperature most of it active life, not at starting temperature. When the engine is hot..... even in winter, the engine needs an oil of a certain viscosity. A thinner, lighter weight oil just aids in reducing starting friction. After it warms up, the thicker viscosity oil required by the specifications of the engine is needed.

I lived in Alaska for many years, and once I understood about engines and "Operating Temperature" I never change oils to a winter grade vs summer grade after that. In winter, once the engine was at "Operating temperature" it needed the oil it needed.

I used to be a bush pilot up there. In the old days engines often used straight 50 weight oil. On a cold day, that oil was so stiff, the you could do chinups on the propeller and the engine would not budge. But if the engine was warm, that was another story. So, how to thin the oil, yet have the right lubrication at temperature. Why, how about adding gasoline to the engine oil???

That is right. There was no way on a cold day that you were going to start the engine with 50 wt oil. That thick heavy oil when cold locked the engine and it wouldn't even turn over, much less start. But, if you added a prescribed amount of gasoline to the oil, per the manufacturers chart they provided, then the oil would be thin enought to allow starting, then as the engine warmed, the gasoline would be boiled or evaporated off from the oil, bring the oil back to the correct viscosity for normal operations at normal operating temperatures.

BTW, those charts prescribed adding gasoline to the oil while the engine was running at an idle. You checked the expected temperature, then using the chart, held the fuel button down for so many seconds or pumped the plunger so many striokes according to the anticipated temperature, to add the gasoline to the oil.

As regards to tranny fluid......switch to redline MT 90 for the manual tranny. I did. It makes shifting a bunch easier. I also run 15W50 Mobil 1 Synthetic year round now as my engine oil. It virtually stopped the little oil consumption I have had.

Regards,

John Rodgers 88 GL driver

Wesley Alden Pegden wrote:

>Okay, I just changed the oil on my new '84 vanagon for the first time last >week, and, without even thinking about it, put 10w30 oil in it (I'm used >to putting oil in eurovans). Now, reading the list archives, I see a >bunch of people are running stuff as thick as 20w50! But my light/buzzer >haven't come on yet or anything, so is it worth me changing it out? If >its bad for the engine at all, I'll definitely swap it out, so my question >is just whether or not it is possible for this to have any adverse >effects. Keep in mind, winter is on its way here in chicago, and we'll >likely see 20 (or more!) below. Of course, I can always do another oil >change before than if that's what's best for the van... right now >(literally...at 12:49am) its 57degrees, and our temp range for these next >weekds looks to between 40 and 70. > >Thanks guys, >wes > > >


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