Date:         Mon, 29 Sep 2003 16:49:15 -0700
Reply-To:     Michael Snow <mwsnow@COX.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Michael Snow <mwsnow@COX.NET>
Subject:      Re: Head re-installation: two questions
In-Reply-To:  <Pine.BSF.4.58.0309291551110.61424@gull.us>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

David Brodbeck wrote:
> On Mon, 29 Sep 2003, Felder wrote:
>
>
>>1. How far do I turn the tensioner when re-installing the belt? I ask
>>because of conflicting opinions. And what's the best way to turn it if
>>I don't have the tool, a screwdriver stick between two drill bits or
>>nails that fit? (OK, I know that tuns the questions up to more than
>>two, but it's related).

I like a $2.00 pair of cheap Chinese angle-jaw needle nose pliers from
Harbor Freight.

>
>
> Supposedly the only really correct way is to use a special VW belt tension
> measuring tool.  However, some manuals describe a "twist test" to use if
> you don't have the tool.  Something like you shouldn't be able to twist
> the belt more than 90 degrees between the injector pump and the cam
> pulley.  I don't remember exactly, though, so don't take my word for it.
> (No, I don't have the tool.  I don't know anyone who does.)

There has been a lot of discussion on various VW diesel lists which lead
me to believe that there is a good possibility of damaging the belt by
twisting it, especially 90 degrees.  I've done the job with and without
the belt tension tool.  If you don't have the tool, don't exert a lot of
pressure on the tensioner as you tighten the nut.  If you cannot slide
the belt sideways across the gear teeth with your bare hand it is too
tight.  If the belt "sings" when the engine is revved, it is too tight.
  It's a lot easer to overtighten than undertighten.

>
> I used a piece of coat hanger wire bent into a "U", clamped sideways in a
> pair of needle-nose vice grips to turn the tensioner.  Some people use a
> small piece of wood with two nails driven into it.  Or you could buy the
> right tool, which probably works with a lot less aggravation. ;)
>
>
>>2. Anything special I should know about injector installation beyond
>>fish out the old heat shield, drop in a new one, and tighten away?

Make sure that the socket you use is deep enough to avoid damaging the
fuel return "nipples".  Install the injectors and torque them on a cold
head.  Some unfortunate DIY mechanics have discovered that hard way that
you can break the head when it is hot and the fit is tighter.  Put a
little bit of anti-seize compound on the injector threads to prevent
problems for the inevitable next time you have to do this.

>
>
> The torque spec is fairly critical, I think.  Other than that, not that I
> recall.  Just torque them up to the correct value.
>
>
> David Brodbeck, N8SRE
> '82 Diesel Westfalia
> '94 Honda Civic Si