Date:         Thu, 2 Oct 2003 14:38:29 -0700
Reply-To:     Zoran Mladen <zmaninco@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Zoran Mladen <zmaninco@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: head post-mortem, and a question
Comments: To: Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <ED75B164-F51B-11D7-B4B8-000393DB2980@knology.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I may have missed this in an earlier message, but did
you reuse your old bolts or new ones?  These bolts are
meant for one time use only.  If you reuse and follow
the original tightening procedure, the bolt will
either break or pull out.

Z

--- Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET> wrote:
> I've posted this to a diesel list, too, but since
> some of you have
> offered advice about my #1 head stud popping block
> threads I thought
> I'd pass along what I know. And a question, too.
>
> I got several emails saying that what I probably did
> is left oil down
> in the bolt hole and pressure-blocked the head stud,
> hence the pulled
> threads. I checked and that is not the case at all,
> there is no oil in
> the hole.
>
> Secondly, I checked that the thickness of the block
> FROM THE BED OF THE
> HEAD WASHER to the the block mating surface was the
> same as my old
> head. It is.
>
> Third, I noticed that the last two thread turns of
> my removed head stud
> are full of iron from the block, so I assume that it
> was only grabbing
> 2 threads when it popped.
>
> How long is the threaded part of the stud supposed
> to be? Mine measures
> 113 mm.
>
> How many threads does a "normal" torqued head bolt
> require? Might one
> insert a shorter washer to reach a few more threads,
> or would a stud
> longer than a normal bold do the trick? Studs might
> be a problem with
> the engine in the car because of the angle.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim


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