Date:         Sun, 5 Oct 2003 08:46:00 -0400
Reply-To:     dr <dxrobertson@NETSCAPE.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         dr <dxrobertson@NETSCAPE.NET>
Subject:      Re: removing upper engine tin?
In-Reply-To:  <20031004194602.17378.qmail@web11304.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

I replaced my rusted engine tin without removing the engine in my 82.  I
first removed the engine seal, then just started removing all the screws
in each piece of tin.  Other things I had to remove to get to all the
screws were the fuel injection stuff at the front, alternator, intake
from air cleaner up to distributor, fan/pulley, and all the plumbing
connected to the blower mounted to the alternator and down to the
exchangers.  I did NOT remove the air distributor, auxiliary air valve,
thermo time switch, nor fan housing.    You may have to remove the fan
housing to get to head nuts, not sure.  I am also not sure if you can
even get to all the head nuts without removing the engine.  Haynes
manual has very detailed pictures of the engine tin.

The piece of tin across the backside of the engine you mention is
actually 2 pieces.  Once you remove all the plumbing at the back and the
alternator and fan/pulley; you should be able to get to all the screws
and just remove it.

I believe you can just remove one side of the tin and leave the other.
But once you start removing tin, "the other side" may actually only be 1
or 2 pieces.  I would just start with the side you need to remove and
then remove the other pieces as needed to get to your head bolts.

I had trouble getting some of the tin screws out, particularly at the
heads.  For some stupid reason, vw used phillips head screws on this
tin, as opposed to the nice huge flat head screws on the bus.  I replace
all the crap phillips with the old flat head style.  You may also want
to replace all your fuel injection hose at this time and check your
metal lines for rust, particularly the fuel supply line on the right
side.  Good Luck.

dr

jake_beaulieu@YAHOO.COM wrote:
> I could use some advice....
> I need to retorque the nuts that hold on the cylinder heads on my 1982 air cooled Westy.  I would like to do this without removing the enigne.  To do this I have to remove the upper cooling tin.  So far, all my attempts have come up short.  I am particularly puzzled by the tin that runs between the back of the vehicle and the fan shroud.  Do the fan and shroud need to be removed in order to get this tin off?  I know I will need to remove the intake manifold and the alternator.  What about the central air distributor, auxillary air valve, and thermo time switch?  One last question.  Can I just remove the tin on one side?  For example, if I just wanted to get at the right head, could I remove all the stuff on the right side and leave the left side intact?
>
> Thanks,
> Jake_beaulieu@yahoo.com