Date:         Mon, 6 Oct 2003 17:30:17 -0600
Reply-To:     Gnarlodious <gnarlodious@MAC.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Gnarlodious <gnarlodious@MAC.COM>
Subject:      Re: Diesel head replacement: it's ALIVE, coolant question
Comments: To: Felder <felder@knology.net>
In-Reply-To:  <50611B73-F862-11D7-8AC0-000393DB2980@knology.net>
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

There's a screw on top of the radiator for bleeding trapped air. Remove the
plastic grille. Let it build up a little pressure and you loosen the screw
to let any bubbles out.
But to tell the truth, I have never had to do this.

Glad it worked out (thus far).

--Gnarlie


Entity Felder spoke thus:

> Well, it started anyway, which calmed my torque-shattered nerves after
> pulling up those threads last week. Thanks to the group for all the
> help. Throwing away those spacers did the trick, and I didn't put in a
> helicoil kit. I may regret that come the next torque stage, but my shop
> mechanic talked me into it.
>
> Three hours fifty minutes from bare block to introducing coolant back
> into the system and cranked.
>
> I'll get around to bleeding it tomorrow evening I hope. Just enough
> coolant any now (sitting level) to fill the tank.
>
> Which brings me to my question: I don't really "get" the instructions
> in Bently about bleeding, especially whether/when the coolant tank
> should be open or closed.
>
> Do you leave the coolant tank open and keep adding coolant, or do you
> leave it shut and stop the engine every few minutes to top it up?
>
> Obviously, after the thermostat opens you've got a lot more to put in,
> then more as the radiator fills.
>
> Any tricks?
>
> thanks,
>
> Jim
>