Date:         Sun, 19 Oct 2003 20:34:14 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject:      Re: Sealing goop on cylinder sleeve inboard ends?
Comments: To: Rob Scott <rob@UNIXGUY.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <6.0.0.22.2.20031019163918.029fe3c8@unixguy.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

No goop should not be required. The O-rings should do it all. There is
rarely a leakage problem here. If you must use a sealant, use the
permatex/loctite Hylomar. It works great and cleans real easy for next
time. It is rated for use on head gaskets. I have this product very
effective around the top cylinder o-rings and the outer gaskets. Another
awesome product for the outer rubber gaskets and transaxle flanges is
the "Right Stuff". Yes, that is the name. It forms a rubber like seal
that actually sticks and can replace cut gaskets. It works! Use it on
the outer seals when the case or heads are pitted.

Dennis


-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
Of Rob Scott
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2003 7:52 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Sealing goop on cylinder sleeve inboard ends?

Greetings, all.

I'm reassembling the right side of my 1990 Vanagon's engine after a
poorly
installed (by a pro shop, no less) rubber waterjacket/head gasket leaked
and had to be replaced.  Everything's apart, cleaned and ready to go
back
together.

Is it usual practice to apply a tiny bit of sealing goop (I'm using the
non-hardening stuff) to the block surface where the inner end of the
cylinder sleeve contacts it?  I'm pretty sure that the outer end where
it
contacts the cylinder head must be a dry fit, but the inner side has me
in
a bit of a puzzlement.  Nothing is mentioned in The Book about sealing
goop
there, but then again the book doesn't really give particular mention to
sealing goop technique anywhere else, either.  I see evidence of what
might
have been a thin smear of goop on the mating surface at the block, but
it
might just be the remains of a bit of oil blowby that's turned to tar.

Any thoughts and experiences would be helpful.

By the way, unlike my other previous (air cooled) VW Beetle and Van
engines
I am finding the task of working on this engine to be less than a
pleasant
experience.  I have found a ton of things where I scratch my head and
ask
"Now why did they do that?", quite unlike the typical German "logical
reason for everything" approach that I saw in the earlier models (and in
general in my BMW motorcycles).  I know that it may upset some of the
faithful, but this whole water jacket thing is a stinky design IMO.


Regards,
Rob

              It's never too late to have a happy childhood.
                    -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
                     Rob Scott, mailto:rob@unixguy.com
        Langley, Washington on Whidbey Island (a suburb with a moat)