Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 19:38:20 -0800
Reply-To: Mike Pedersen <mikeped@SHAW.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <email@example.com>
From: Mike Pedersen <mikeped@SHAW.CA>
Subject: Re: 88 thermostat leak
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Actually, the VW clamp had eaten into the hose, so I replaced it. Areas of
the epoxy coating had come off and they were starting to rust, so that might
have effected it. I would agree that banded hose clamps will eat into the
hose more readily.
I've heard the theory of thermal expansion/contraction with these clamps and
I am a bit sceptical, being that all the materials have a different
coefficient of expansion. I would also venture to guess that it wasn't the
"maximum" clamping force that was being applied (it leaked).
I tend to believe that the reason for the clamps used are merely for speed
of assembly at the factory.
I've never had a problem with the screw seizing since I always use stainless
and I've used a lot of them in salt water environments.
I didn't have the special tool to expand the clamps, but I would agree that
it would be easier. Although, anything would be easier with the engine out
of the vehicle. ; )
Old English and old Japanese cars used double wire clamps, Old American cars
use band clamps and many older Euro cars use Swedish spring steel for
clamping. Most new cars used "single use" clamping mechanisms which need to
be cut off. Many different ways to skin a cat (or engineer a clamping
mechanism). But I'm sure it all comes down to quality vs. manufacturing
Not arguing, just discussing.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris DeLong" <green536@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: 88 thermostat leak
> Ok well just to give you some insight, the VW spring clamps are better
> the screw type clamps in two ways. 1. the screw clamp cuts into the hose
> eventually. 2. the spring clamp expands and cotracts, thus allowing
> clamping force without shortening the life of the hose.
> But I will admit that removing and installing the spring clamp can be a
> bitch if you dont have the sepcial tool. On that same note; with the
> tool it takes less time to remove the clamp and it doesnt have a problem
> with the screw seizing.
> The o-ring goes on top :)
> Chris DeLong
> Fine Tuning
> Seattle, WA USA
> >From: Mike Pedersen <mikeped@SHAW.CA>
> >Reply-To: Mike Pedersen <mikeped@SHAW.CA>
> >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >Subject: 88 thermostat leak
> >Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 17:34:28 -0800
> >I just changed out the waterpump on an '88 automatic. Also changed some
> >hoses, t-stat, and both temp senders. Upon startup, the waterpump to
> >thermostat housing hose was leaking. Fixed that with some "real"
> >steel Tridon hoseclamps, not the useless green VW ones. It was also
> >leaking at the joint at the t-stat housing body to housing top. There
> >not an o-ring in there when I took it apart, but a little geeking around
> >the net indicates that one (or two) should be present. I know it's a ~$1
> >part, but no, I'm not going to buy one from the local VW parts department
> >or list vendors, since time is of the essence. ( I live in an place
> >it takes two ferries to get here, and there ain't no local VW dealer.)
> >someone tell me if the ring goes on the top or bottom of the t-stat. My
> >guess is top. If any one has a spare (034 121 119) could you tell me
> >the I.D and thickness is? Also if there are any painted coloured bands
> >it. (This may help indicated o-ring material, buna or nitrile).
> >Mike Pedersen
> >Powell River, BC
> Gift-shop online from the comfort of home at MSN Shopping! No crowds,
> parking. http://shopping.msn.com