Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 00:03:27 -0500
Reply-To: John Meeks <jmeeks@GASLIGHTMEDIA.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Meeks <jmeeks@GASLIGHTMEDIA.COM>
Subject: Re: Steering rack replacement question
In-Reply-To: <006b01c3abe3$ad666280$f5600b42@computer>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Mark and all ~
Great write-up of the steering rack R&R!
I have added it to our website.
If you want to edit it or add pictures, email me and I'll point you to the
edit page.
Your post is preserved at http://www.vanagonauts.com/index.phtml?catid=103
or just follow the menu from Suspension, Brakes,
Steering ->Steering ->Steering Rack R&R
This list needs more posts like yours. Thanks !!!
John Meeks
Top of Lower Michigan
91 Westfalia MultiVan
sign up for the Vanagon Rescue Squad
www.vanagonauts.com?catid=74
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf
>Of zaranski
>Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 8:48 PM
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Re: Steering rack replacement question
>
>
>Just (TODAY!) finished-up replacing the rack on my wife's 87 GL (I say
>finished, but still need tires and alignment). Not a difficult
>job at all.
>The driver's side seal was leaking BADLY.
>
>I bought a rebuilt rack from Jeff at vanagonparts.com for about
>$180 ($100
>core deposit), 6 month guarantee. He also sold me a wheel cover
>and a dash
>light, took paypal and it all arrived on a Saturday after being sent the
>preceeding Tuesday. I do not know who rebuilt the rack. The
>rack came with
>new bushings installed.
>
>The Bentley calls for replacement of any self-locking nuts removed (I
>removed, discarded and replaced a total of six 8-mm x 1.25 pitch
>slef-locking nuts), and replacement of the boots. I replaced the tie-rod
>ends, too.
>
>Got the nuts from the local guy. Got the OEM boots, tie-rod ends, and a
>tube of molybdinum disulfide grease (CV joint grease) from Mark
>at Adirondak
>Auto Parts (see germanautoparts.com) at very good prices (all
>for about $40
>inc shipping!).
>
>1) Got wheels straight, applied the parking brake, chocked the rear
>wheels front and back, lifted each front side onto jackstands and removed
>roadwheels. Found the center indicator on the rack which calmed my fears
>about the whole centering thing.
>
>2) Plugged the breather hole on the top-center of the
>resevoir cap with
>chewing gum (dentyne).
>
>3) Removed two bolts at the steering coupling way forward (under the
>driver's left foot position?), loosened the collar that mates
>the shaft and
>its U-joints to the rack, and then separated the shaft from the rack (you
>could/should mark all these for reassembly). The front coupling
>is easier
>to reach if the spare tire holder is open--it provides a nice
>inclined back
>rest as a bonus. 13 mm all. I did have to turn the system some
>to decouple
>the plates up front, and lowering the winshield washer fluid
>resevoir helped
>me get my left hand in a good spot.
>
>4) Removed the tie-rod end nuts (both were pinned-castle
>nuts) and used a
>generic puller to push the ends up thru the ears (offered very little
>resistance, could have gently tapped them out). castle nuts were 17 mm.
>
>5) Removed the lower two and loosened the upper two fasteners
>holding the
>rack to the frame. 13 mm all. Discarded old nuts.
>
>6) Removed the feed and return lines from the pump (17 mm
>flarenut wrench
>for the first/smaller one, adjustable wrench for the larger/second one),
>caught what fluid drained out (in an empty plastic container), and then
>wrapped/capped the lines with aluminum foil.
>
>7) Removed the final two loosened fasteners and snaked-out
>the rack and
>rods. Discarded old nuts.
>
>8) Cut off the old boots and removed the tierods (label them) from the
>old rack.
>
>9) Replaced the tierod ends, put the new boots on the rods,
>fastened the
>tierods to the appropriate ends of the new rack. Greased the rack-to-rod
>ball/socket joints and the rack teeth. Pulled the rack end of
>the boots on.
>
>10) Mounted the new rack, attached the lines, connected the
>tie-rod ends
>to ears, connected shaft/Ujoint collar to knurled pinion shaft on rack,
>connected forward coupling plate, (w/all new self lock nuts) and put the
>wheels back on...all in reverse order of removal. The Bently calls for
>torqueing the coupler plate, rack mount and tierod nuts to 20, 25, and 30
>respectively.
>
>11) Refilled the PS fluid resevoir, started the van and finished
>refilling. Removed the chewing gum from cap.
>
>12) I did then remove and reposition the steering wheel as it was not
>"straight" before this.
>
>A one-day job if you have all the tools and parts you need.
>
>Glad to give something back to this awesome list,
>Mark Zaranski, Porter, Indiana
>
>87 GL weekender
>86.5 qsw parts car
>85 4-cyl 5spd quantum wagon
>82 turbodiesel quantum wagon
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET>
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
>Date: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 9:16 PM
>Subject: Steering rack replacement question
>
>
>>There is no clear-cut procedure in Bentley for removal and replacement
>>of the PS steering rack in a late-model vanagon. Is anyone familiar
>>with this procedure? Is this something I can accomplish, or are there
>>reasons it's better left to a VW shop?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Jim
>
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