Before you give up and drill, why not chase down the Snap-On truck for some of those splined removers made for the job of driving into stripped-out bolt heads? You can pick up a good 12pt socket driver while you're there. Those aren't the kind of tool you want to go to Harbor Freight for. I've also see people arc-weld a regular bolt onto the top of a stripped out or broken bolt and use the head to get a regular socket on, but I'm no welder so you'd have to ask around about that. Jim On Monday, December 1, 2003, at 03:35 AM, Ben S wrote: > today i began an attempt to replace the cv joints on the 2nd axle. the > first went smoothly with a friend's help. today i was not so lucky; > the > second axle bolt that i attempted to remove from the wheel side was > already badly stripped, apparently by whoever had installed the > previous > cv joints. it's the 12 pt style and is pretty well rounded on the > inside, so from reading the archives, it seems that drilling the head > off this bolt is the best solution. with this in mind, i pose the > following questions: > > any advice on doing the drilling? all i have now is a 12v cordless > drill and a bunch of old dull bits, so i'm going to buy new stuff. who > makes good drills these days? > what kind of bit do i want? do i need an extra-long one to reach into > that space inside the trailing arm? > is it possible to do this drilling without damaging the cv's boot? > my new cv joints didn't come with retaining rings, how bad is it to re > use the old ones? > any advice on where to get a 12point driver socket? i have to give > back > the one i borrowed today. i'd like to avoid chasing down the matco or > snap on truck if at all possible. > > any tricks, techniques, or amusing anecdotes about this arduous task > are > appreciated! thanks. > > Ben. > |
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