Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 15:28:53 -0500
Reply-To: ROBERT DONALDS <donalds1@VERIZON.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: ROBERT DONALDS <donalds1@VERIZON.NET>
Subject: Re: rebuilding your own heads
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I have done a couple of pair in my time and my best advise is to throw the
OEM cores in the trash and get a new pair of AMC heads. The OEM heads crack
and recrack even if welded you might not see the cracks in the exhaust port
or at the spark plug holes until the engine is back together and the engine
is leaking coolant. I even went so far as to build a pressure testing stand
so I could test them at 100 PSI and that was not good enough they still
cracked after they had a couple of hundred mile on them. So I dont even look
back as they are tossed into the scrap pile. But I do remover the retainers
for use in the AMC heads when I replace the valves that come with the AMC
heads I just dont want to take the chance that the imported is still using a
poor qaulity valves.
I would go threw a pair of AMC heads if the gasket surface is OK but the
valve seats do take a pounding so that could be a problem.
As for my own engines I always start with a good used AMC head and cut a
groove around the rubber gasket seating surface and have it heliarced welded
with a better aluminum alloy never to corrode again. Next I install a much
harder valve seats like the ones I use in the propane engines and my big
valve heads because I can.
going faster miles an hour
I remain
Bob Donalds
http://www.bostonengine.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Rodgers" <jh_rodgers@BELLSOUTH.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: rebuilding your own heads
> Scott, I would add to Jim Felders comments the following:
>
> Either do it your self, or have the shop do it, but get it done. -- have
> a three angle grind put on the face of the valve and seat to ensure a
> very close seal when the valve is closed. Have this hand lapped to the
> point that when the valve is just dropped into the guide, the weight of
> the valve alone - no springs - against the seat is sufficient to hold
> gasoline in the head without leaking. THAT is a good seal.
>
> Regards,
>
> John Rodgers
> 88 GL Driver
>
> Scott W. wrote:
>
> > Has anyone done this? I mean aside from maybe needing
> >a machine shop to do a few things, I would think a
> >person could do most of it themselves with a few extra
> >tools. Does anyone know of a good way to get the valve
> >springs off? How much do shops usually charge to
> >rebuild heads? thanks
> >Scott w.
> >
> >__________________________________
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>
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