Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 09:12:02 -0800
Reply-To: "MacLachlan, Bill" <Bill.MacLachlan@CITY.BURNABY.BC.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "MacLachlan, Bill" <Bill.MacLachlan@CITY.BURNABY.BC.CA>
Subject: Re: FW: RE: Coolant Overflowing!
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I've replaced a radiator. Well, since mine is one of the all metal ones,
I pulled it, and had it tanked and rodded. Counts as replacing, I think.
Diagnosis that worked for me:
Take the grille off the front of the van.( 1/4 turn on the screws is all
that's needed)
Start the cold engine. Let it run. As motor warms up, feel the radiator
surface. If its all stone cold, the thermostat ain't opened yet. Once
the thermostat opens and the radiator starts to warm up, it should warm
up evenly all over. Clogged patches in the radiator will stay cold while
everything else warms up. If you've got an unevenly heating radiator,
you've got a clogged one. Fix it. Dropping the rad is not a big deal.
Wet, yes, so have a change of clothes/towels around...but not hard.
Pretty easy diagnosis- ya don't need any tools- the grille can be
removed using a butter knife to turn the screws a quarter turn. But
watch out, the plastic will be brittle. I'd use a real screwdriver.
-----Original Message-----
From: Birkenfeld Jeff [mailto:BirkenfeldJeff@JOHNDEERE.COM]
Sent: December 30, 2003 8:47 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: FW: RE: Coolant Overflowing!
> Micheal writes:
> >>Well after more close inspection it appears that my main feed and
> >>return
> under the van is still leaking some of the time-(this is why I can't
> get all the air out). Guess I will have to bite the bullet and replace
> those plastic pipes and hope that is all that it is. Radiator is next
> as it is only part of cooling system that has not been replaced.
> Thanks for all the suggestions.<<
>
> My guess is the plastic pipes are OK, they need to be resealed at
> connecting ends with proper steel inserts and good clamps, hoses must
> be in good condition. I'd say the radiator is clogged or close. This
> usually occurs when someone puts stopleak in the system or mixes
> coolant types. Removing the radiator fan temp sensor will usually
> show goop on the inside if this is the case. I would remove the
> radiator and take it to a radiator shop to have it flushed/flow
> checked/leak tested for about $30 or so. If it's bad, get a new one
> for $200, yours is now 15 years old and you don't have a clue what's
> been run in that thing before you bought it. IF the radiator is
> clogged, coolant has to go somewhere, usually creates leaks which you
> may chase or misdiagnose. I agree with Loren Busch, rarely does anyone
> suspect the radiator for coolant problems but how many of us have
> replaced theirs?
>
> Good luck!
> JB
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