I'd run it for a while with the valve OPEN and then after a hundred miles, I'd bleed the front radiator: Engine on, engine HOT, and just crack the front radiator nut a bit to let the air out ( pisssssst ), and re-tighten. m2cw. Keep an eye on the rear over-flow tank for coolant level. Malcolm --- developtrust <developtrust@COX.NET> wrote: > I just replaced the rear heater valve. I bought it > from the dealer with the > "O" ring $48.58 for both plus tax ($3.75) and > replaced it. I only lost about > 2 or 3 tablespoons of coolant. A very easy to do > job.And simple. It took > about 10 minutes. > > When inspecting the new valve I noticed that there > was a tight fit and > virtually no clearance between the valve and the > housing for a very tight > precision fit. > > Inspecting the old valve I saw that it was loose, > dirty and there was > significant space between the valve assembly inside > and the housing, about > 1/16 inch on both sides. The valve must have shrunk > over the years. > > I did attempt to bleed the system at the rear heater > core but got virtually > no air which puzzled me. With a loss of about 3 > tablespoons of coolant there > should have been some air. Any advice about that? > > I thought I would write this progress report in case > anyone checks the > archives in the future. > > William
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