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Date:         Wed, 14 Jan 2004 06:18:54 -0500
Reply-To:     dr <dxrobertson@NETSCAPE.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         dr <dxrobertson@NETSCAPE.NET>
Subject:      Re: Replacing the clutch slave cylinder
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

You can look at the slave cylinder and its mounting through the left rear wheel well. You will see that due to the design of the mounting bracket, that the bottom part of the rear mounting bolt is difficult to get at; it is "inside" the bracket. Thus the problem. I had no problem with the front bolt other than typical rust; I could get a socket/wrench on the bolt and nut.

First, spray penetrating oil on these bolts periodically a day or so in advance. You should be able to easily get to the top part of the back bolt with a box-end or socket. You can try to get to the bottom of the back bolt by sliding an open-end wrench at an angle up through the bottom part of the bracket. I was able to do this and just barely get a grip on the bolt. However, it was not a good enough grip. I tried various combinations of holding the wrench with another wrench, a screwdriver,.... nothing would hold it once I started turning the top wrench. At the back side of the cylinder mounting bracket, there is a space just large enough to fit a wrench, but there is not enough space between the cylinder and the engine. Thus the idea of bending the engine tin and going through the engine compartment.

I bent a piece of the engine tin, near the slave mounting at a point where it meets the engine. From what I remember, it was the large tin piece that goes across the top of the engine. I then was able to go into the engine compartment and slide a wrench through the hole between the bent tin and the engine, though the back side of the cylinder mount, and onto the bottom part of the bolt. This provided the grip so I could then remove the nut off the top.

Hopefully you wont have to go through all this and your bolt isnt as rusted as mine was. The overall job was easy other than getting a grip on the bottom part of the back bolt. Maybe try that first and see how it goes. I did not replace my front cylinder and have had no problems, its been about 6 to 8 months. Good luck.

david

Anonymous Digest <jbrush@AROS.NET> wrote:

>I would seem that my clutch slave cylinder on my 81 Air Cooled is on the >way out, and so I searched the archives and came away with the idea that >its gonna be a major PITA to get at one of the bolts to remove it. I am >not one to want to make custom wrenches, and only occasionally have anyone >who will help out from the top side. > >Is it that hard to bend the tin and get at it from the engine compartment, >and does that angle of attack get me everything, or is it mostly beneath, >and the top for the one ugly bolt? > >The master cylinder was done maybe 25K miles ago, so I don't think there >is any need to mess with it, plus its darn cold around here, so it may be >a good idea, but I will leave it alone for now. > >Does anyone have any hints or suggestions to add to what is already >archived. Any secrets to getting at the hated bolt towards the front? Are >there two, or three of these bolts? > >Obviously, its not my daily driver, so I have time to learn and get my >mind set to do it. > > >Always in your debt for the assistance, > >John >

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