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Date:         Wed, 14 Jan 2004 23:54:22 -0400
Reply-To:     Herr Wibo Fichten <wibo.fichten@ROGERS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Herr Wibo Fichten <wibo.fichten@ROGERS.COM>
Subject:      Transmission housing corrosion and (separate question)  asbestos
              ;~(
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Busbrats, Vanagonites, Syncronauts, lend me your ears...

I have a project 1988 Syncro and have discovered to my dismay rather severe corrosion of certain areas of the transaxle housing. There are no rotted through holes, but the shift link attachment point (a sort of tab thingy) fell off. The place where the diff locker switch enters the housing is quite corroded.

This is a canadian vehicle that was winter driven, but my 1984 2wd, which was also winter driven (but not every winter), has it's housing quite intact.

The affected parts seem to crumble to a dark grey dust.

Any suggestions as to what may have caused this? Sure there is road salt, but I was under the impression that aluminium was much better at resisting corrosion, as opposed to steel? Aluminium road signs exposed to salt spray seem to last forever. The head corrosion problems were attributed to phosphates, not road salt.

Anybody know if you can weld aluminium (to add some metal, essentialy, rather than to join two parts). Would this be at the risk of warping the housing? How about the other handyman's duct tape, epoxy of the JB Weld variety (for an outside application, as opposed to the head repair proceedures discussed in the archives)?

How can I stop or slow the dammage? Just a bit of rust proof oiling, I suppose?

About the asbestos part of my question. The ETKA CD lists the 2wd vanagon clutch plate specifically as "asbestos free", but makes no mention of this in dealing with the Syncro plate. I was carefull at disassembly, but it is quite impossible to totally avoid the dust and dirt. The Syncro specification for scealant at the junction to the motor means that the stuff collects there so you get alot of the black dust spilling out as you crack it apart. Does asbestos dust have any particular caracteristics for identification? Does anyone know for sure if the plate contains asbestos or is asbestos free?

The best policy is undoubtedly to always assume the presence of asbestos when dealing with these sort of parts and act accordingly, but I'd still like to know for sure.

So many questions, so little time...

Fichten


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