When I replaced my master cylinder I did not have to bleed the system beyond the clutch master. After replacing lost fluid in the tank, and bleeding from the tank to the master cylinder. I found that fifty to 60 rapid pumps of the clutch pedal was sufficient to bring the clutch "Pedal" back online and no further bleeding was necessary. I never did need to bleed the system beyond that point. Also I have no needed to replace the clutch slave cylinder either. BTW, the DOT 4 is the recommended brake fluid for this machine. Regards, John Rodgers 88 GL Driver James V wrote: >On 2/8/04 16:25, "Joel Cort" <joel_cort@YAHOO.COM> wrote: > > > >>I found this write up I had put together a while back, on instructions to do >>this job. >> >> > >Thanks, all, for the reassurance. Great instructions, Joel. Definitely a >do-able job for me - nothing like saving a buck or two hundred. (to Jim: >yes, it's the master, not slave that's leaking) But I think I'll replace >the slave as well, per recommendation. > >Just a couple quick questions... > >I found more info on the procedure here: >http://www.type2.com/bartnik/clutchmaster.htm > >It outlines a more involved clutch bleeding process than what Joel describes >(more like brake breeding), including bleeding master first, then slave. Is >this truly not necessary? > >Also, about how much brake fluid should I be prepared with? DOT 4 is fine? > >Thanks again, > >James >90 Carat > > > |
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