Date:         Fri, 16 Apr 2004 14:13:23 -0500
Reply-To:     Larry Alofs <lalofs@RCN.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Larry Alofs <lalofs@RCN.COM>
Subject:      Re: Exhaust Leak- Temp. Fix?
Comments: To: Matt Sutton <msutts@EARTHLINK.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

I have done this type of welding many times in my poorer days and in
fact just did a similar repair on the straight pipe that goes back to
the cat on my '91.
   Brazing is good to slow down future rust.  I don't have a MIG welder;
that may work with care. The metal is very thin after rusting for a few
years.  If the crack goes all the way around so the flange is completely
loose, it will be tricky to get it reattached at the correct angle.
Might be best to tack it together before disassembly, if it can be done
without too much fire hazard.
   Of course disassembly can be challenging if the heads of the bolts
onto the heads are rusted away and the bolts are corroded into the
aluminum heads.  I have finally learned to use stainless steel for ALL
the exhaust nuts and bolts along with a little anti-seize where steel
meets aluminum.  The only ones that have to be metric are the ones that
thread into the head.  For the rest, I get 5/16" at Home Depot.  You
might find metric SS at someplace like West Marine.
   Perhaps someone else can advise about temporary patching material.
   BTW,I just ordered a header pipe from Ken at Vanagain for $110.
($172 at the dealer)
    Good luck,
Larry A.
91 GL with exhaust completely apart.


Matt Sutton wrote:
> Hi folks,
>     Doing a post trip check up today, and found a pretty serious exhaust
> leak. The joint where the header pipe meets the flange on Cylinder #1 is
> pretty much gone, cracked at the seam. I'd thought I was running a little
> loud, now I know why.
>     The trick is I have to get it inspected next week, and there's neither
> the time or funds to start replacing the no-good, one-piece, non-stock
> headers I've got. So I'm looking for a temporary fix: putty, bandage, etc.
> I'd consider having it welded, too, but not sure how much good metal there
> is to work with. Ideas?
>     The good news is that the compression is still the same after 9,500
> miles of hard driving, so at least it looks like I'm just saving up for new
> headers instead of a rebuild.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Matt Sutton
> 88GL
>