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Date:         Wed, 21 Apr 2004 09:14:20 -0700
Reply-To:     Malcolm Stebbins <mwstebbins@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Malcolm Stebbins <mwstebbins@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: 87 syncro westy maiden voyage and bad news
Comments: To: Jason Willenbrock <pooncerelli@HOTMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <BAY14-F16AdxaQ6shal00067a32@hotmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

As was mentioned, if the rear end scrubs, it is not the front Viscous Coupling (VC), as the VC affects the front wheels. And yes, the front end feels 'tighter' when the jelly heats up.

Re removing the drive shaft: 1) get some wire to hold the shaft in place or it will drop and hit you in the face when it drops. BTDT Use a 13 mm open ended box wrench on the inside (back of the front fitting, and front of the rear fitting). If they still will not budge, then maybe they are rusted and may need heating, but for that, I'd take my van to the my mechanic. I keep an extra supply of 13mm nuts so that I can always have good ons if I round some getting them off.

Also REMEMBER which way the shaft comes out (which end is front and which is back). Some folks loosen the front diff a bit to get the shaft in and out, but I find it is NOT necessary most of the time. But if the drive shaft has never been out, it will be rusted in place. Some folks mark (paint) the shaft mating surfaces so that they can get the shaft back in the EXACT orientation that it was when first installed. I routinely drive with my front-to-back drive shaft out. If I want to take it with me, I use muffler U clamps and mount the shaft to the back of the Westy pop-top.

And YES, the rear diff lock still works with the front drive shaft out. Can't help you with the rear end stuff.

Malcolm (91 syncro westy)

--- Jason Willenbrock <pooncerelli@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:

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