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Date:         Mon, 26 Apr 2004 11:52:35 -0500
Reply-To:     John Rodgers <jh_rodgers@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Rodgers <jh_rodgers@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Subject:      Re: Summer's coming and my van is getting hotter than ever!!
Comments: To: JNMOTLAG@SPRINTPCS.COM
In-Reply-To:  <0HWQ00L68EL0IR@dedicated59-bos.wh.sprintip.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

John,

The engine temp and the blinking light are related in only one way. Blinking light tells you the coolant is low.

You need to first replace the themostat. They are cheap enough. If it hasn't been done in two years, it should be done. Be careful of thermostats bought from your FLAPS, as they often will not fit right. Strongly suggest you get one from the VW dealer, a VW repair shop, or from one of our list vendors, preferably the latter. Run the vehicle without the thermostat for a distance. See how it performs with no thermostat at all. Then put the thermostat in and see how it performs. Compare the temperatrure under each conditon: Without thermostat, With Thermostat.

Flush the cooling system and install coolant in a 50/50 mix. Unless you are in extreme cold, that is the best ratio for year around.

Have your local shop check the operating temperature with an IR temperature device. You can have this done on a cold engine, and actually tell when the thermostat opens as it warms up.

As for the blinking light, it is connected to the coolant level sensor in the expansion tank. If the sensor is cracked or damaged in any way, the light will blink continuely. If the coolant mix is incorrect it will blink continuely. If the coolant level is low, it will blink continuely. When the sensor system is first energized, the system runs a resistance test, and if all is well, the light goes out after blinking for a few moments. However, if the resistant between the electodes is incorrect as a result of incorrect coolant mix, or an open circuit such as when the coolant is low, or a crack or open in the circuit, there will be an incorrect resistance reading and the light will blink.

Good luck,

John Rodgers 88 GL Driver

John N. Motlagh wrote:

>You never notice how hot you are running, until it starts to heat up out >side. So let me drop a couple of problems on the list, and see who pick >them up. > >1. The 86 2.1 runs temp gauge runs with the needle about 2/3 high, the >fan will come on and bring it down a bit, and then it stabilizes. At this >point I can turn the front heater on, and the temp takes a dive, about 1 or >two needle widths below the LED. Is this normal behavior? I can put up >with the warm tootsies for now, but I don't know if anyone has spent the >summer in Dallas. >2. When I first turn on the van the blinking temp light comes on, and >stays on until I stop and restart the van. It doesn't seem to matter how >warmed up the van is. Thoughts on this? > > > >After reviewing the archives, I have found three cheap (and I like the way >this sounds) > >1. Flush and fill, but what mix for the summer? 50/50 (coolant/water) >or 60/40? What brand for the van? >2. Replace the Temp II sensor >3. Replace the reservoir cap > > > >Thanks in advance!! > > > >John N. Motlagh > >1968 Golden Westy > > > >BTW. > >Any list members driving the OD Green double cab on 1709 westbound, in >Keller TX? > > >


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