Date:         Fri, 30 Apr 2004 08:44:33 -0700
Reply-To:     gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      only a leaky radiator needs to be replaced
Comments: To: zolo <zolo@foxinternet.net>
In-Reply-To:  <009301c42e8d$f41834b0$46ce3ad8@FirstLaptop>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Zolo,
     I had reached a point where I was thinking of
replacing my radiator because I did not want to use
the flush chemicals on the engine and the labor of
removing to flush the old radiator did not appeal to
me.   This is what I ended up doing and it worked
great.
    1) jack up the right rear and remove the hose
clamps from the two big hoses that attach to the big
pipes. Turn heater valves off.  I disconnected the
return line at the pipe and the other line at the big
plastic T.
     2)  Find the needed spare hoses and clamps to
mate a garden hose to either end of the now openned
radiator loop.
If you have replaced that plastic T the old one works
as a good bridge. All waste water needs to be directed
down, captured and inspected
     3) Force HOT water through the loop  at full
house pressure capturing the water for inspection.
Do a burst of 2-3 gallons so that you do not deplete
your hot water.   Do this in both directions.
     4) Cork the ends of the loop, about a 7-8 cork
number and fill the radiator with syphon using a step
ladder and a bucket of hot water and 1 cup/gallon
cascade dishwasing soap.  Allow to soak overnight
     5) After flushing out the soap fill with a 0.2
molar citric acid and allow to soak for a week.
     6) Flush the system again.  When you capture the
first flush you will see what has been lurking in your
radiator.
    I can not overstate the need for the water to be
hot and of a good pressure.   The kind of pressure you
can achieve with this method is greater than any whole
engine flush or cutting and adding the flush T.   The
mate beween the garden hose and the big pipe needs to
be as leak free as possible.   The citric acid will do
wonders for good clogged radiator but it will make
leaks worse in a radiator that needs to be replaced.
If you are concerned about using any chemicals always
test it with aluminum foil first.
        regards gary
ps  remember to always open the heater valves when
refilling the system.   Make it go easier



--- zolo <zolo@foxinternet.net> wrote:
> Gary,
> Give me some more info about this enemia.  I never
> heard the word.
> And a little more detailes about the soaking of the
> radiator.
> Zoltan
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gary hradek" <hradek@YAHOO.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 9:32 PM
> Subject: for the record water is not corrosive
>
>
> > Is the earth flat.   Looks flat to me.   Is water
> > corrosive.   Where you see rust you see water.
> Must
> > be the water like the earth is flat.
> >    Oxygen is corrosive not water.    Rust is iron
> > oxide and we have aluminum oxide too.
> >    Someone said the orange stuff gels and the
> green
> > stuff is corrosive like water.
> >    I think more effort should be placed on what
> will
> > keep the engine cool and the waterpump lubricated.
> >    I was impressed that the orange stuff was used
> in
> > other german cars.   After flushing my system I
> added
> > the orange stuff.   It will gel but only if there
> is
> > still some green stuff around or if you use if
> over
> > 50%.    It is very organic and less ionic than the
> > green stuff.   In the summer I think 30% would
> work
> > just fine.
> >    Hot coolant will disolve less oxygen than cold
> > coolant and a sealed system should be mostly free
> of
> > oxygen.
> > Keep your system topped off with whatever you
> choose
> > to use and remeber that water is your friend.
> >    A 0.2M citrus acid enemia is a good idea if you
> are
> > running a bit hot.   Isolate the radiator at the
> big
> > pipes and flush with hot water.   Soak the
> radiator
> > for a week with the enemia and flus with hot
> water.
> >     Keep cool this summer.   If you are running
> hot
> > fix it and fix it now.
> >    and for the record water is not corrosive, gary
> > From:    David Brodbeck <gull@GULL.US>
> > Subject: Re: Cooling strategies, color coded, etc.
> >
> > On Thu, 29 Apr 2004, Daniel L. Katz wrote:
> >
> > > maybe we can get a chemist to comment; but, it
> seems
> > logical that
> > > distilled water would actually be more corrosive
> > than average tap
> > water.
> > > there may be some advantage in terms of reducing
> > mineral deposits,
> > but
> > > distilled water should really be more corrosive
> > because it is farther
> > from
> > > chemical equilibrium with respect to cooling
> system
> > materials.
> >
> > In fact, tap water's pH is usually adjusted at the
> > treatment plant to
> > make
> > sure it isn't corrosive to the water mains.  (This
> > isn't true if you
> > have
> > your own well, of course.)
> >
> > The concern with tap water is that the minerals in
> it
> > could react with
> > chemicals in the coolant and cause them to settle
> out,
> > forming deposits
> > that can clog the system.  This is supposedly why
> VW
> > specified
> > phosphate-free coolant.
> >
> >
> > David Brodbeck, N8SRE
> > '86 Volvo 240DL wagon
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
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> >
>
>





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