John and all, I would only use the citric acid flush as a last resort, just before you think you might replace the radiator. It will clean out the stop leak that may have been added and is restricting your flow. I was ready to replace my radiator as it was clearly plugged. There was a large lag between when the fan kicked on and where the temperature gauge was reading. This is no longer the case as I have increased flow through the radiator. There is no evidence of leaks since the flush. If stop leak was added to a radiator to plug a radiator leak you will get leaks after the flush. Be aware of this before you do such a flush and do not flush the engine with this mix as it is an acid. regards gary It works well if your radiator i --- "John D. Foster" <jidd@jiddware.com> wrote: > Thanks Gary, > > Just FYI, one good/cheap vendor I've used: > > http://www.bulkfoods.com/search_results.asp?txtsearchParamCat=ALL&txtsearchParamType=ALL&txtsearchParamMan=ALL&txtsearchParamVen=ALL&txtFromSearch=fromSearch&txtsearchParamTxt=4272 > > About $2/lb > > -----Original Message----- > From: gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 11:40:43 -0700 > Subject: Re: [VANAGON] for the record water is not > corrosive > > > JD and Zolo, > > Citric acid seemed to be one of the main > components of > > the over the counter flushes for radiators. > > I tested a citric acid monohydrate against the > > aluminum foil for a week before trying it in the > > radiator. The molecular weight of the monhydrate > was > > 200. 40 grams /liter or 160gram/gallon or > 320gram > > for two gallon(for the job) will yield a .2M > liquid > > with a pH somewhere between 1 and 2. I used 2 > > gallons because I was trying to do the big pipes > as > > well but would use caution if you still have the > metal > > pipes. You have to remove and replace the corks > to > > displace the water with the citrate solution so > wear > > some eye protection if you do this. > > Citric acid is considered a weak organic acid. > There > > are several forms of it so check your molecular > weight > > to see that there is no major difference. If > there > > is a big difference you need to adjust the amount > you > > use and perhaps check the pH. If all else fails > just > > ballpark the amount and do the foil check. > > As for a source I would consider a high school > if > > you are unable to find it at the harware store or > > online. The cheaper the better. > > gary > > --- "John D. Foster" <jidd@jiddware.com> wrote: > > > Hey Gary, > > > > > > Being several years out of my high school > chemistry > > > class, could you refresh > > > me on how to achieve a 0.2M concentration? As > > > chance would have it, I have > > > several pounds of citric acid on hand as my wife > is > > > starting an > > > aromatherapy/bath product business and its one > of > > > our raw materials. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > JD Foster > > > > > > > > > > A 0.2M citrus acid enemia is a good idea if > you > > > are > > > > running a bit hot. Isolate the radiator at > the > > > big > > > > pipes and flush with hot water. Soak the > > > radiator > > > > for a week with the enemia and flus with hot > > > water. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > > Do you Yahoo!? > > Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs > > http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
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