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Date:         Wed, 5 May 2004 08:17:15 -0700
Reply-To:     gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: only a leaky radiator needs to be replaced
Comments: To: Keith Adams <keith_adams@transcanada.com>
In-Reply-To:  <1DDAB08A9E9D7848B0DCF7A8DEBC57269DD156@TCMAIL1.tcpl.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Keith, I am incline to agree with your action about replacing the radiator when it appears plugged particuliarly if the radiator is over 7 years old. In my case the radiator was only 3-4 years old. The previous owner purchased a new radiator from vw at a cost of 400 dollars. He failed to tell me that he had added some stop leak for perhaps a leaking head that I had to fix later. I too went through the vanagon primate dance of doing all the required radiator prereplacement items like the thermostat and the fan temp sensor and let us not rule out the many times you look for the air in the system. Mystical air in the system or mythical air we seem to hear a lot about that us vanagon types. So Keith I think we can not over state or shout too loud the IF YOU SEE A BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WHAT THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS READING AND WHAT THE LOW AND HIGH TEMPERATURE FAN IS DOING your radiator just might be talking to you and saying that I am feeling a bit constipated these days and things are backing up a bit. Keep it free flowin, gary --- Keith Adams <keith_adams@transcanada.com> wrote: > Hey Gary, > > Just to follow up - I replaced my radiator last > night with a new Behr > unit, and my temp needle is stuck on that LED like > crap to a blanket. > And my rad fan is actually behaving normally now (I > haven't heard that > for a long time!). I had asked about my cooling > problems (to the list) > last March, and thought at the time my rad was done, > but everybody had > other things to try. It was your posts and symptoms > that finally > convinced me to replace the rad (I will likely > follow your acid flush > routine and see what results I get - heck, I've got > two spare engines in > the garage - what's an extra rad?). > > Anyways, proof that sometimes a kick in the ass is > still a move forward. > > Cheers, > Keith > > -----Original Message----- > From: Keith Adams > [mailto:keith_adams@TRANSCANADA.COM] > Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2004 7:58 PM > To: Gary Hradek > Cc: Keith Adams > Subject: Re: only a leaky radiator needs to be > replaced > > Sorry Gary I guess you can ignore my previous > message, as I sent it > prior to reading this. My > radiator is of unknown vintage so perhaps I will > replace it, and do the > below to my old one and > keep as a spare. > > Cheers, > Keith > > On Fri, 30 Apr 2004 08:44:33 -0700, gary hradek > <hradek@YAHOO.COM> > wrote: > > >Zolo, > > I had reached a point where I was thinking of > >replacing my radiator because I did not want to use > >the flush chemicals on the engine and the labor of > >removing to flush the old radiator did not appeal > to > >me. This is what I ended up doing and it worked > >great. > > 1) jack up the right rear and remove the hose > >clamps from the two big hoses that attach to the > big > >pipes. Turn heater valves off. I disconnected the > >return line at the pipe and the other line at the > big > >plastic T. > > 2) Find the needed spare hoses and clamps to > >mate a garden hose to either end of the now openned > >radiator loop. > >If you have replaced that plastic T the old one > works > >as a good bridge. All waste water needs to be > directed > >down, captured and inspected > > 3) Force HOT water through the loop at full > >house pressure capturing the water for inspection. > >Do a burst of 2-3 gallons so that you do not > deplete > >your hot water. Do this in both directions. > > 4) Cork the ends of the loop, about a 7-8 cork > >number and fill the radiator with syphon using a > step > >ladder and a bucket of hot water and 1 cup/gallon > >cascade dishwasing soap. Allow to soak overnight > > 5) After flushing out the soap fill with a 0.2 > >molar citric acid and allow to soak for a week. > > 6) Flush the system again. When you capture > the > >first flush you will see what has been lurking in > your > >radiator. > > I can not overstate the need for the water to > be > >hot and of a good pressure. The kind of pressure > you > >can achieve with this method is greater than any > whole > >engine flush or cutting and adding the flush T. > The > >mate beween the garden hose and the big pipe needs > to > >be as leak free as possible. The citric acid will > do > >wonders for good clogged radiator but it will make > >leaks worse in a radiator that needs to be > replaced. > >If you are concerned about using any chemicals > always > >test it with aluminum foil first. > > regards gary > >ps remember to always open the heater valves when > >refilling the system. Make it go easier > >

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