Date:         Thu, 6 May 2004 21:06:21 -0500
Reply-To:     Stan Wilder <wilden1-1@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Stan Wilder <wilden1-1@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: Torque converter drive plate question....
Comments: To: jesse johnson <jjmojo@BLAZENET.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

#1 Just leave the pilot bearing in there. Doesn't bother anything.
#2 Leave the three shims in there but it's best to replace the main crank
seal while you're in there as preventive maintenance.
#3 You should still be concerned about the end play. Set it to .007 to .015.
The three shims aren't there as an exclusive clutch assist item. They keep
your rods in the proper location on the rod journals and keep proper slack
alignment on your timing gear. They also pull your crank rear sealing
shoulder to the proper clearance against the rear #1 Main bearing.
If this is not a new engine you should install the rear crank seal since
it's easy to get to at this time.
Flex plates are subject to bending. Use a good strong cross bar to lock the
crank as you torque the flex plate down.

Stan Wilder


----- Original Message -----
From: "jesse johnson" <jjmojo@BLAZENET.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2004 8:23 PM
Subject: Torque converter drive plate question....


> Hey all,
> The new engine i bought came set up for a manual transmission. I
> removed the flywheel, but i have a few questions.
> One is... there is a needle bearing pressed into the crank.. can i just
> leave it in even though i don't need it for an auto setup?
> Two is... do i need to remove the shims that were used to set the
> endplay? If so.. do i have to remove the rear seal to get them out?
> I would assume since i don't have a clutch pushing on the end of the
> crank.. that there is not need to set end play.. and the thrust bearing
> takes care of all that...
> Any help on this would be grand..
> thanks all,
> jesse
> 89 carat