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Date:         Tue, 1 Jun 2004 06:08:03 -0700
Reply-To:     Doug in Calif <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Doug in Calif <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET>
Subject:      Re: Mystery oil leak on 2.1 please help with ideas
Comments: To: Vanagon Man <vgonman@MSN.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

That is a grand Idea!

Thanks!

Doug

----- Original Message ----- From: Vanagon Man To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2004 4:49 AM Subject: Re: Mystery oil leak on 2.1 please help with ideas

When i have a mystery leak I but a little leak detector in the crankcase and illuminate the motor at night with a black light..........90% of the time I can see the origin then...........

You can get the leak detector at any Flaps and a cheap little black light at Wal-Mart in the pet supplies (i think they use it for aquariums)

Adam P Charleston,SC Coburn, WV 81 Westy "The Brick " 70 Single Cab "Whitey" 74 Beetle "Ol Yeller" 73 Transporter (STILL at paint shop) 1988 Vanagon Wolfsburg 1976 Transporter (New CA bus) 1974 412 "Goldmember" Used Vanagon Parts for sale (mostly aircooled) ----- Original Message ----- From: "ROBERT DONALDS" <donalds1@VERIZON.NET> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Monday, May 31, 2004 6:18 PM Subject: Re: Mystery oil leak on 2.1 please help with ideas

> Doug > freeway driving is when you see the most crank case pressure so that's when > the oil is forced out of any possible opening but with a new engine you > should avoid the freeway for the first bunch of miles to avoid damage to the > rings. > wash it up and see there the oil leaks from without driving it the wind > moves the oil every place raise the idle if need be. > I have found that new pumps and cover are often not flat and aviation > formagasket wont cure that. > the self sealing nuts for the oil pump loose there torque rather > quickly when the plastic heats up and softens up I never use them. what > sucks is that you cant get at the cover nuts when the engine is in place and > its many hours to access the dam cover . > the other spots are the dip stick tube where it sits into the case you had > a green oring in the gasket set for this and a little silicone would be a > nice touch in the same spot. Its almost impossible to see the old gasket is > still in the case. The pulley seal is a common leaker did you scotch bright > the seal surface on the pulley to get rid of the build up of varnish and > crud and did you go to the dealer and get the oring for the crank pulley > that does not come with the gasket set. The front pulley needs to be torqued > to 252 pds or it comes loose and could be leaking. there is a plug in the > front of the case its pressed in and can leak I put a bead of silicone > around the edge as im prepping the case. I use a scratch brush to prep the > sealing surfaces of the case half's and run a file over the surface to check > for burrs. case prepping can take most of a day. > Then I install the oil pump I use a bead of silicone on the inner pump > flange after I install the gasket on the pump before I install the pump into > the case. I throw the gasket away that comes with the gasket set for the oil > pump cover. The reason I do this is that although it has the same part # as > the type one gasket it measures .006ths rather than .004ths as the type one > gasket does. the distance of the cover to the pump gears helps determines > the oil pressure warm. the thicker the gasket the lower the pressure. to > seal the outer cover I draw the thinnest bead possible of silicone on the > outer edge of the oil pump cover gasket with it sitting on the cover itself > as a palate. next I flip the gasket into its final resting place on the > cover with a razor blade and coat the second side of the gasket again with > the thinnest bead around the outer edge of the gasket. I try to avoid > getting any silicone into the pump or gears once the cover is installed onto > the pump I draw a bead of silicone around the studs and with a wave washer > and a new 8 mm nuts I bring the cover tight onto the pump in a criss cross > fashion this spreads the pressure over the pump cover and drives the pump > the rest of the way into the case I don't use a torque wrench but Im sure it > most of 20 pounds when Im done tightening the 4 nuts > good luck > > at a parts store you get only parts > at Boston Engine you can ge the rest > > going faster miles an hour with the radio on > I remain > Bob Donalds > http://www.bostonengine.com > > all rights reserved > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Doug in Calif" <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET> > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > Sent: Monday, May 31, 2004 2:12 PM > Subject: Mystery oil leak on 2.1 please help with ideas > > > Well, my brand newly rebuilt 89 2.1 has developed a mysterious oil leak at > the rear cross member. > I have looked at it closely to try to determine where it is coming from. > The oil seems to drip down between the cross member and the aluminum casting > that is bolted to the rear of the case. > I am thinking the oil pump may be leaking for some reason?. > I used a new pump, gaskets, and red sealing nuts and its properly torqued. > I also used aviation permatex on both sides of the gasket behind the oil > pump and the between the cover and pump. > > Any other places it could be? > > Dip stick is not leaking, > Oil filler tube is not leaking. > > Cant really see directly under the pulley but the back of the pulley is dry, > I used a new seal > > There seems to be a fair amount leaking > 10 mins on the freeway will produce several droplets all along the bottom of > the cross member and aluminum casting. > > > Thoughts? > common culprits? > > I have built several hundred air cooled engines and never had a leak here. > > Thanks, > > Doug >


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