David Marshal wrote: Figured that this way it would be like bleeding brakes. Now I can engage the clutch but it feels very soft and you have to go to the floor to get it in and out of any gear. Is there something that I am forgetting to do?
Alistair Bell wrote: Have done it 3 ways: !. was lucky, quick swap and a reg. bleed with no problem. 2. slower slave swap and then problems bleeding. I reverse pressure bled the system, ie.pressurized fluid introduced into slave bleed screw. It worked like a charm, obvious precautions need not be mentioned. 3. long drip method. Letting slave bleeder drip slightly overnight. Worked!
To these possible solutions I would add a pressure- or vacuum-bleeder. Some, including the venerable Bentley, insist one MUST use a pressure-bleeder to bleed the hydraulic clutch, as, unlike the brake system, the usual pumping method serves only to compress and expand the air bubbles trapped in the line. I presume such a bleeder is applied to the fluid reservoir and forces fluid thru the system to the open bleed screw. I have also had good luck using a vacuum-bleeder like this one: http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7830.htm&cart_id= Combined with a one-person-bleeding kit, or a simple ole fashioned baby-food jar, the pump should be able to get all the air out. Here's the bleeding portion of my own recent clutch-cylinder R&R: http://www.vanthology.com/1Layout/Technical/Clutch3.html#Bleeding%20the%20Clutch%20Hydraulic%20System Good Luck!
"OK, I'll leave it at that since I've already gone on for far too long about something I don't know a whole lot about ..." Jeffrey Earl 1983 diesel Westfalia "Vanasazi" http://www.vanthology.com/
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