Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 20:20:24 -0700
Reply-To: mark drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: mark drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Re: Temp Gauge/Voltage Stabilizer
In-Reply-To: <12804275.1090281037645.JavaMail.root@scooter.psp.pas.earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
Jim, this may be a problem with the 43 relay or the circuit that feeds
it, namely the coolant level sensor system. The conclusive test is to
remove the 43 relay and see if the problem continues. If the problem
persists with the relay out, the engine temp sender circuit or the gauge
or cluster itself may be bad. If the problem ceases with the 43 relay
out, the fault MUST lie with the coolant level circuit and fooling with
the voltage stabilizer won't help. The 43 relay is part of the coolant
level circuit. On 86 and newer this relay is in the main fuse/relay
panel. For an 84 such as yours it is "hidden" just below the dash top,
at very the far left end above the wiring grounds.With the instrument
cluster cover off you can shine a light in there and almost see it.With
the fuse panel undone, you can reach up there and lift the relay up out
of it's socket. Make note of the orientation to facilitate putting it
back. On my 84 the 43 relay is right next to the radiator high speed fan
relay so feeling around for it is not enough. The 43 relay is used in
all 83+ Vanagons as well as all 198X Golfs, Jettas, and Quantums if they
have the level sensor equipped coolant tank.
There are 2 versions of the 43 relay. The older version such as the one
that came in your 84 does 2 things if it thinks the coolant is low. It
blinks the LED and it pegs the needle on HOT.
The newer version 43 relay that came starting with late 85 models only
blinks the LED and leave the temp gauge reading alone. Either version
works in all years. A previous owner or repair person could have swapped
either version into any year so you can't go by year.
The early version will immediately stop blinking if it thinks the level
has become good and the pegged temp needle will drop to normal too.
The later version must be reset by turning the key off or once it starts
it will blink forever but the temp needle always reads actual engine temp.
Mark
Old Volks Home wrote:
>After spending an exhaustive Sunday afternoon researching the List Archives (thank the stars for DSL), I’ve come to the conclusion that my temp gauge/red LED woes (since my recent engine/trans rebuild) are caused by the infamous Voltage Stabilizer on the Instrument PC Foil. I have ordered a new stabilizer from the local dealer (actually two – one for spare, based on various comments put forth in the archives related to reliability [or lack thereof] of the replacement stabilizer itself).
>
>But, I wanted to share my symptoms to the List, et al, to verify my findings:
>
>1. Temperature Gauge until last weekend has always read just to the left of the LED at operating temperature on the freeway, a teeny bit higher (on top of the LED) in stop and go traffic and just to the right of the LED going up a long grade (think Grapevine north of LA).
>2. LED has usually done it’s initial “blinking” like it’s supposed to do for the first few seconds of engine operation and has gone off.
>3. As of this weekend, with the engine stone cold, after the LED has gone through its “initialization”, approximately 5-7 seconds later, it’s blinking like mad and the gauge pegs itself into the stratosphere – remember this is with a stone cold vehicle with no engine running.
>4. I have checked the new temperature sensor (1.9 screw-in style) and she checks out A-OK.
>5. I have a new tank sensor installed for the past couple of months. I’ve removed it to see if it might need cleaning, but it was spotless.
>6. Coolant is 50-50, the phosphate-free stuff.
>7. I have not tested the temp gauge itself. I do have a spare clock assembly with temp and fuel gauges to install if necessary.
>8. The Fuel Gauge appears to be reading normally, although very pessimistically at ½ tank, even though I know there’s more “push-water” in the tank, especially after only 35 miles since the last fill-up. I might add that the Fuel Gauge has never been really all that accurate (again pessimistic readings) since I’ve owned the Westy since 1997.
>9.I have independently checked the coolant temperature and found it to be of the normal range associated when the engine is at operating temperature – it is not overheating. Bleeding the system has been successful, so that’s not an issue either.
>
>To be honest, I consider myself lucky that the Voltage Stabilizer has lasted this long (20 years), compared with others on the list I’ve read about this weekend who report shorter time-span reliability with theirs and in addition, seeing that some replaced their stabilizers not just once, but several times since the first posting of the problem way back to 1994.
>
>My thanks to many who have posted to the list regarding this problem, their suggestions and their solutions. But, in light of the symptoms above, what is the wisdom of the wondrous and wise on this List? Am I headed in the right direction?
>
>Or should I follow my gut and install an aftermarket VDO Temp Gauge with appropriate sender, etc., to get away from this craziness once and for all? I’m tempted to do both………
>
>I'm heading out the door here at work, so I will read anyone's input tomorrow morning. Have a nice evening.
>
>TIA for anyone’s input :-)
>
>Jim Thompson
>84 Westfalia 2.1 "Ole Putt"
>oldvolkshome@earthlink.net
>http://www.oldvolkshome.com
>
>Jim Thompson
>84 Westy 2.1 "Ole Putt"
>oldvolkshome@earthlink.net
>http://www.oldvolkshome.com
>
>
>
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