Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 22:28:39 -0600
Reply-To: Bob Stevens <mtbiker62@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Bob Stevens <mtbiker62@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Headlight Relay
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
David Marshall's procedure.......
David Marshall said:
This is what I would recommend for a relay setup. It is simple, involves no
cutting of the factory wires, it upgrades the wires to the lights to
something much bigger (less V=I^2xR losses - more current means more voltage
drop thru a given resistance - less resistance = less voltage drop ) and it
can be easily reversed.
Under the passenger seat install two relays that have two 87 terminals on
them (Bosch part # B0 332 019 150) (I sell them for $11.95 CAD / $7.95 USD)
one for high beam and one for low beam. I mount the relays on the part that
holds the track for the seat - left side usually. Run 8 or 10 gauge wire
with a fuse to the positive terminal on the battery to the 30 terminal on
the relays - make sure the fuses are accessible when you open the cover to
the battery tray so you can replace them without fumbling in the dark. Next
go to the hardware store and get some 10/2 industrial 'cab tire' electrician
cord - this has a very thick outer covering on it and very fine stranded
wires inside of it - which is perfect for low voltage. You will need two
lengths of this, one to each headlight bucket from the 87 terminal on the
relays. I route these cables thru the same hole that the positive terminal
from the alternator / starter comes up thru and run it to the front along
side of the frame rail up to the passenger light and then over to the driver
light. The 'cab tire' wire outer shell is usually thick enough to withstand
the elements by itself. Then run an additional pair wires (I use 16/2
speaker wire) to the passenger side light bucket. This 16/2 wire will go
into the low and high beam terminals of the existing factory terminal
housing and provide the signal to turn on the relays (terminal 86). On the
relays, put a wire from terminal 85 to the frame of the vehicle or to the
negative pole of the battery. This way the factory switch / dimmer will
control the relays. At the headlight buckets, I crimp on new factory
terminals and terminal housings for the headlight lights and run a small
length of 10 gauge to the body for ground.
30 Battery Positive Terminal (8ga wire)
85 Ground / Frame (16 ga wire)
86 Signal from factory light terminal (16 ga wire)
87 New Left headlight terminals (8ga wire A)
87 New Right headlight terminals (8ga wire B)
So far, this system has worked very well for me... no splicing into factory
wires, meaning you can put it back to stock with about 10 minutes of work.
It is simple and it works.
David Marshall
and another reference:
http://neksiwel.20m.com/custom.html
and it sounds like you've already got Frank's procedure:
http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/hdltrela.htm
