Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 07:57:05 -0500
Reply-To: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser <geiser@EXECPC.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Mary Beth and Chris Geiser <geiser@EXECPC.COM>
Subject: Re: Diesel Vanagon Timing Advice
In-Reply-To: <081820040345.1896.4122D0F70001ED2E0000076822007481849700040799020A05@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf
Of >Kenneth Wilford
> I can't get the van to start and I think it is the pump timing that
is >not on the money.
>
>Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Ken Wilford
>John 3:16
>www.vanagain.com
Ken - These diesels are pretty forgiving - will start even if timing is
a ways off. Might not run well, but should start. Things to check:
-I've had the injection pump 180 degree's off - I ground down the
battery twice before I figured that out. There's a little arrow on the
outside surface of the injection pump sprocket that has to point at a
timing mark somewhere so you know you have the locking pin in the
correct place.
-If you've had the pump off, it might not be completely full of fuel
again - especially an older pump can lose it's prime and not pull the
fuel in. If you've had the pump off, pull off the top return line on
the pump and fill it through that hole.
-Dial indicator use is pretty straight forward; I think others have
covered it well here... After I've reversed the engine and found that
"zeroing" point on the injection pump, I'll rotate it back forward to
TDC and then adjust the pump position to just about where I want it,
then tighten the bolts and check it again. That's the quickest way to
get close...
Some other reasons that may just be incidental in that they decided to
happen while you were working on the timing belt just to mess you up,
not because of the timing belt issue:
-Someone else mentioned the stop solenoid - other than the 180 degree's
off incident, the stop solenoid is another reason my van has not
started. There's a plunger in there that blocks fuel flow to the pump
to shut the engine off. That plunger can stick open or closed... if
it's stuck closed, engine won't start. Today's diesel fuel is not very
lubricating, and that plunger often can feel the effects and get
"sticky". I use a fuel lube from the Bosch service place here. Add to
each tank and my solenoid has stopped sticking. When you turn the key
on/off, you should hear the solenoid "click" as that plunger moves. My
fix when it's stuck closed is to have someone turn the key on, then with
a open end wrench (I think 15/16ths fits if big metric isn't available)
I loosen the stop solenoid 1/8th to 1/4th turn, then tighten it again
quickly and have the person try to start it. Timing your loosen/tighten
to the glow plug cycle is necessary. This is all of course after you've
checked that there's current going to the solenoid when you turn the key
on.
-Glow plugs: if more than one is out, mine engine won't start in even 90
degree weather. When the engine is cold, have someone turn the key on,
and check the glow plugs with an infrared thermometer after 10-15
seconds. Shine it at the glow plug/head junction and see that they all
rise a little in temp. If one doesn't, it may be out. You can also
remove the current bar and check resistance of each glow plug - that
would be the official Bentley way... Check first that the glow plugs are
getting current when the key goes on. Follow that back - there's a fuse
that can burn out, or the relay can be bad. I've also had to take the
relay off and sand rust off of the prongs to get better connections
again.
After all that, they're guaranteed to start!!
Chris
