Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 16:16:14 -0700
Reply-To: Steve Shane <shane_steve@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Steve Shane <shane_steve@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Opinions Wanted (was: WTB or borrow ECU)
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Tabe, My 87 westy did the same thing, and it used to drive me nuts!!!! I
tried having the connections that regulate the mixture replaced, and it did
nothing.. them after days of road tests and troubleshooting, my wife and I
found out that it was the computer under the back seats. I think you are
calling this the ECU.
At any rate, we foud that if we packed stuff around it, the bucking would
happen, and that when we removed the items, the bucking stopped. ENTIRELY!!!
Since I kept that area clear, I have been driving bucking free for three
years!!!!
I have run into others who this fix has also worked for. I hope it works for
you!!
Holler if you have any questons!!
- Steve
>From: tabe johnson <xtabe@YAHOO.COM>
>Reply-To: tabe johnson <xtabe@YAHOO.COM>
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Troubleshooting Opinions Wanted (was: WTB or borrow ECU)
>Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 02:14:01 -0400
>
>I've gotten quite a few ECU offers over the last day; thank you all!
>
>I wanted to describe my symptoms again to see if anyone has
>clever ideas that I haven't thought of yet, for problems with
>my '87 Westy with stock 2.1L:
>
>Typically, when the engine is cold, it will stall (if at idle)
>then start right up again once or twice in the first 10 minutes
>of running. When the engine is under load, it's as if someone
>has briefly switched off the ignition key -- the van lurches and
>_sometimes_, the tach drops instantly to zero. When the
>engine starts to run again, ~1 second later, the tach goes
>back where it belongs. Sometimes the tach doesn't drop
>to zero. It generally runs better after the engine is
>warm, and worse after it's been raining.
>
>Because of the tach's behaviour, I am thinking electrical/ignition.
>So, I have wiggled all connections and tapped components with a
>screwdriver with the engine running - no changes. (Here I'm talking
>about the distributor, coil, main relay, fuel injection, computer) I have
>swapped both the distributor and the AFM with used replacements.
>No change. I have checked the voltage difference of all the grounds
>with the engine running-- again, all OK.
>
>So I'm thinking ECU. Any other ideas? I just thought -- idle
>control unit or throttle switch maybe? Grounds?
>
>Thanks to all,
>
>--tabe johnson
>Vancouver BC
>
>______________________________________________________________________
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