Date:         Wed, 1 Sep 2004 07:57:18 EDT
Reply-To:     THX0001@AOL.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         George Goff <THX0001@AOL.COM>
Subject:      Re: ? on Syncro fuel tank and sender - May God Go with You
Comments: To: UCMYVW@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

In a message dated 9/1/04 7:17:09 AM, UCMYVW@AOL.COM writes:

<< My questions are what is the procedure for getting at and changing the
sending unit? >>

Alan,

You're lucky that I am in a good mood this morning because it took some
searching to find the following clipping.  Although I have never used the procedure
myself, the writer, Steve, describes the R&R of the Syncro sender plate with
the fuel tank in situ.  Please bear with any cumbersome formatting of the text
which might result from the clipping and pasting of the material.  (By the
by, is your Mountain Top, PA near University Park, home of St. Joe and the
greatest football dynasty the world has ever seen?)

George
-------------------------------------------
Sender Plate Replacement by Steve

The hose plate IS the sender plate (thus the hyper-hundred dollar price tag)
the tank is plastic and I've yet to see one fail...the insulation blanket is
just that..prevents overloading the charcoal canister with fumes when the
tank (engine/tanny) get real hot.  the plate is about the only thing that CAN
leak...Fill it up until it leaks that drain it down..guessing ain't gunna
tall ya..I know it's a pain..
Get some "PB'laster" penetrating oil...NOT WD-40 or that ilk..ONLY PB...soak
the crap out of the nuts that hold the plate (6 if I remember) for a few days
the longer the better..then get a 1/4 inch drive ,10mm, socket and grind the
open end so so that it's ALL splines..If you look at the socket you will see
that there is a radius at the opening...you need to remove that so that every
last bit of "socket" is on the nut..You will need to drive it on the
nuts..and "work" them gently...
IF you are incredibly lucky you will be able to get them all off w/o snapping
off a stud...You may ALSO need a thin 10mm box wrench to get the lower ones
behind the frame rail...bite the bullet and buy Snap-On for this....really..
IF you break a stud, carefully drive ALL the studs back into the tank until
you can capture the ring that they are mounted to..then..and this is FUN FUN
FUN..cut the ring in one place...you will be able to split it and twist it
out though the hole....remove and replace (weld) the studs that broke (hey!
they are really just bolts tacked to the ring!), reinstall and glop every
thing with anti-seize compound..repair (if possible) or replace (more likely)
the sender plate. hook it up..test it...
Clean up...take a shower while your sig orders out for pizza... Ya done good..

Steve

"Hey! nice Jeep, Mister! "
"Look kid, it's NOTAJEEP! "
--------------------------------