Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (September 2004, week 2)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Sat, 11 Sep 2004 19:19:06 -0800
Reply-To:     Jack <john.cook58@VERIZON.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jack <john.cook58@VERIZON.NET>
Subject:      Re: LED solder gauge
Comments: To: Michael Rule <manikmike@YAHOO.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <20040911205647.16140.qmail@web11205.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Mike,

If you're talking about printed circuit soldering, the smaller gauge of solder is better because it's quicker to heat up & melt. Make sure it's rosin core, NOT acid core. Yes, you want to use a small iron with a small tip (like 1/8" dia.), but it's relative to the job at hand - it's just as bad to try to use a wimpy iron because it takes too long to melt the solder and get the "flow" you need for a clean joint. You need a hot, well tinned tip which will transfer the heat quickly. If "well tinned" doesn't mean anything to you, ask & I'll try to describe what I mean.

One of the secrets is touch time. If you have to hold an iron on a printed circuit very long, it's likely going to damage it. As someone already warned, you can destroy the adhesive holding the print to the board and cause it to lift. The copper will survive but now you have a mess that's best left to an experienced tech to repair.

I don't have enough time to make more sense, but if the above sounds complicated, it's really not, but it DOES take experience. If you can, practice on something to get a good flow of solder and a good joint without destroying everything in the process. Then you can have the confidence to do what you need to do.

I certainly don't mean to be insulting but soldering PCBs (or flex circuits) properly really is something which requires experience. Fortunately, the VW stuff is relatively crude (ie, not "fine line") so it's relatively easy to work on. It will survive some mistakes.

//Jack

Date sent: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 13:56:47 -0700 Send reply to: Michael Rule <manikmike@YAHOO.COM> From: Michael Rule <manikmike@YAHOO.COM> Subject: LED solder gauge To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM

> Hi All, > > A question for the Electronics Guru's: what gauge solder do you recommend > when replacing vanagon LED's? > > Thankyou, > Mike > > > > --------------------------------- > Do you Yahoo!? > Shop for Back-to-School deals on Yahoo! Shopping.


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.