Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2004 10:29:18 -0500
Reply-To: Jim Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <felder@KNOLOGY.NET>
Subject: Free tools for Rear Bearings and other stuff
In-Reply-To: <004701c49d45$6c6b6ba0$e108b83f@computer>
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>
I don't know if this will be helpful to anyone else or not, but in this
part of the country (south) at least the local autozone will provide
tools for free if you give them a deposit and bring them back on good
condition.
I recently replaced brakes and bearings on my daughter's civic. When I
bought the parts they brought out the big socket I needed. It was free
to me when I brought it back.
Another time I pulled the pilot bearing from a VW diesel crank with the
engine in the car. I didn't buy any parts, but they let use their big
slide puller and pilot bearing adapter for free. It just took a minute,
I had been going at it for a day or more with my puny puller.
So if you're going to need big sockets and torque tools, check with
your local flaps and maybe you can save a pile of money.
I asked both times when I would need to bring the stuff back, and both
times they didn't care.
Jim
>> Hi Everyone,
>> Here it is a step by step of the rear bearings for the archives. You
>> should
>> still have a bentley and be familar with packing bearings and such.
>> It's a
>> big messy project and I wasted alot of time noodleing checking the
>> archives
>> calling my mechanic so I hope to save someone that leg work. I did
>> this on
>> my 2wd Vanagon. Now would also be a great time to renew your CV
>> Joints and
>> Rear Breaks. Please feel free to email me your comment's and I'll
>> keep them
>> all so I can post this on a site a some point.
>>
>>
>> R & R of Rear bearings for VW Vanagon
>>
>>
>> Tools needed:
>> 46MM Socket and driver I like the sears ¾ inch drive (slide) for
>> this
>> 13mm socket
>> 7/8 socket
>> 17mm socket
>> Cheater bar good 3ft would be great.
>> Good size punch
>> Big hammer like 2 ½ pound mini sledge works great
>> Internal hog ring pliers
>> 6mm Allen socket for CV bolts
>> Jack / Jack stands
>> Vise
>> Flat head Screwdrivers
>> Bleeder valve wrench (sorry I forgot the size)
>> Torque wrench
>> Brake bleeder
>> Lug wrench
>> Mechanic's wire
>> Bentley Manuel pages 42.2 42.4 42.5
>> Optional:
>> Seal puller
>> Cv joint pin spreaders
>>
>> Supplies:
>> Inner and outer bearings
>> Inner and outer seals
>> Bearing grease high temp, choose your flavor there's a lot but DO NOT
>> USE
>> THE CV JOINT GREASE
>> 2 Rolls of paper towels
>> Box of rubber gloves
>> PB Blaster
>> Brake Cleaner
>> Brake fluid
>> Lock tite (blue) medium
>> Old clothes they will be garbage at the end of the job
>> Anti seize
>> Simple Green or Degreaser
>> Old toothbrush
>> Shopping Baggies
>> Zip lock type sandwich Baggies
>> Optional
>> CV boots and grease
>> Bearing spacers
>> Slotted Axel nuts (A must if yours are rusty and worn)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Work Sequence:
>> 1. Remove the cotter pin on the axle nut.
>> (If you have alloys you may have to take the wheel off if you do then
>> put it
>> back on and put the bus back on the ground)
>> Spray the axle nut with the PB Blaster
>>
>> 2. Loosen axle nut you will need a big cheater and chock the
>> wheel.
>> 3. Chock front wheels fore and aft, put bus on jack stands and
>> remove wheel.
>> Put your lug nuts in a baggie.
>> 4. Remove 2 little Drum bolts then remove drum with hub (you may
>> need to
>> knock the drum with the hammer a little)
>> 5. On the back of Backing plate on top remove Metal brake line
>> and tape up
>> so it does not spill brake fluid.
>> 6. Below where the line was remove the 13mm bolt
>> 7. On the front of backing plate just below the hub remove the 2
>> lower bolts
>> (17mm)
>> 8. On the backside of the backing plate you will see a metal rod
>> that goes
>> through the backing plate to the brake shoe holder. Use your big
>> hammer and
>> punch and from the back knock it out away from the bus. It takes a
>> few good
>> whacks to get it started. Don't knock it all the way out just past
>> the
>> bearing box.
>> 9. Now the backing plate is loose remove it with ebrake cable
>> attached and
>> wire it to rear trailing arm. (From under the bus you can pull the
>> slack
>> out of the cable so you can get it to the trailing arm and out of the
>> way of
>> the bearing box.
>> 10. Now clean the cv bolts on the transmission side with the
>> tooth bush and
>> degreaser. Then remove the bolts and spacers don't loose them put
>> them in a
>> bag. Rest the drive shaft on your extra jack stand so you don't hurt
>> the cv
>> joint also cover the exposed cv joint with a plastic shopping bag to
>> keep it
>> clean and so you don't get grease everywhere yetJ.
>> 11. You will see 4 7/8 inch bolts around the bearing box
>> remove them (use
>> a socket) and put them in another baggie
>> 12. Here's where a friend would help but I did it alone, as you
>> pull off
>> the bearing box the drive shaft will come with it and out of the
>> trailing
>> arm be careful of the cv boot that you don't rip it on the trailing
>> arm box
>> it's a little sharp. Don't worry if the stub axle separates from the
>> bear
>> box cause you are going to do that soon anyway.
>> 13. Now clean out your trailing arm at least where the cv joint
>> sits simple
>> green and a rag worked for me. I then spray the entire inside with
>> Krown
>> oil just to be safe and protect against rust.
>> 14. Go to your workbench and lay the bearing box and driveshaft
>> flat. If
>> you can vise the shaft and prop the box up on something it will be
>> easier.
>> Then remove the CV Bolts and cover up the exposed cv joint with
>> another
>> shopping bag.
>> 15. Now put your bearing box in the vise facing up. See that
>> little hole
>> in the end of the stub axle? Put your punch in there and gently tap
>> out the
>> stub axle you will have to move the bearing box so the stub axel can
>> come
>> all the way out.
>> 16. Here's where you are going to get messy J put on some rubber
>> gloves.
>> 17. Remove the inner and outer seal with your seal puller or
>> flat head
>> screwdriver.
>> 18. With a paper towel try to clean out some of that grease so
>> you can see
>> what your up against do it to both top and bottom.
>> 19. Now with the bearing box in the vise face down you will see
>> a retaining
>> clip or Hog ring. Put on your safety glasses! Take that out with your
>> internal hog ring pliers. Careful mine shot across the room J don't
>> loose it
>> either cause you will need that later.
>> 20. Now you can see the 2 bearings and the spacer. With the box
>> still face
>> down push the spacer to one side so you can get to the edge of the
>> bearing
>> on the other side. Carefully knock that bearing out with your punch.
>> Don't
>> scratch or chip the bearing housing or spacer. The bearing will most
>> likely
>> break but that's okay cause that's what the new one is for, just get
>> it out
>> of there without hurting anything.
>> 21. Now you should have one bearing and the spacer out, flip the
>> box around
>> and pop out the other bearing. Now throw away your old bearings and
>> seals
>> you don't want to confuse your new parts with the old.
>> 22. See all that grease on the spacer and in the bearing box?
>> Clean it with
>> paper towels and brake cleaner. Make it spotless!!
>> 23. Some listies say always replace spacer. I inspected mine
>> after I
>> cleaned it and it looked good, if it looks like a burnt bearing race
>> (purple
>> or blue tie died) replace it. Mine looked almost new so I kept it.
>> 24. Okay clean off your workbench so it's spotless any dirt that
>> goes in
>> your new bearings will shorten their life span!!
>>
>> Reassembly time!!
>>
>>
>> 1. Now pack your new bearings with grease.
>> 2. Let's install the outer bearing first That's the one with the
>> removable
>> inner race. With your bearing box in the vise face up rest the
>> bearing in
>> place. With your 46mm socket (or anyone that only touches the outer
>> part of
>> the bearing )LIGHTLY tap the bearing in it's new home and put the
>> spacer in.
>> (you can use a flat piece of metal to get the bearing started if the
>> socket
>> keeps slipping)
>> 3. Flip the box around and pack the center part of the bearing
>> housing with
>> grease evenly and more than was in there when you cleaned but not too
>> much
>> or you'll blow out the seals. Install the spacer and make sure that
>> it is
>> lightly covered in grease inner and outer parts.
>> 4. Now install the inner bearing the same way you did the outer
>> but make
>> sure it goes in past the groove for the hog ring, and put some more
>> grease
>> on the outer edge of the bearing. (I forget if I used the 46mm socket
>> or a
>> different one just make sure it only touches the outer edge of the
>> bearing)
>> You can use a flat piece of steel to get it started.
>> 5. Put your safety goggles back on. Install the hog ring and put
>> in some
>> more grease again not too much or you'll blow the seal.
>> 6. Now you cleaned your stub axle right? Lightly coat it in
>> grease in
>> slowly install it. It's a PITA cause that removable inner race keeps
>> trying
>> to pop out. Don't let it. You will need to use your hammer to GENTLY
>> install the stub axle (by taping the bearing box down) while pushing
>> down on
>> the inner race with your punch (big end facing the race) with your
>> hand not
>> hammer you don't want to mess up your new bearing right? If you
>> never let
>> the race pop out it will be easy but it took me a few tries to figure
>> it
>> out. Make sure the stub axle is all the way in there will be some
>> space
>> between the stub axle and the bearing housing. DO NOT HAMMER ON THE
>> INNER
>> RACE OR YOU WILL BREAK THE BEARING!!!
>> 7. Put in a little bit more grease on the outer bearing and
>> install the
>> seal.
>> 8. Now is a great time to service your CV joints with new grease
>> and boots
>> see the vanagon BTDT site or Ben from Canada's site for great step by
>> step
>> with pics.
>> 9. Now clean your CV joint washers and reinforcement things and
>> bolts if you
>> 're not using new ones. Lots of brake cleaner, paper towels and an old
>> toothbrush work great. Make sure your have enough washers for every
>> bolt.
>> 10. Install the CV joint to the stub axle. It's a balancing act
>> but if your
>> vise is tall enough is should hold it pretty good and be careful not
>> to
>> contort your CV joints while you do it. First get them all tight
>> then
>> Torque the bolts to 33ft pounds
>> 11. Now your exposed CV joint is covered with a baggie right?
>> Get your
>> friend again and have them help you install the bearing box again.
>> Don't
>> let your drive shaft hang in the breeze support it with your extra
>> jack
>> stand. Make sure the part of the out side bearing housing with the 3
>> holes
>> is facing down. Use some locktite on the bolts to hold them in place
>> and
>> torque to 101ft pounds per Bentley 42.2
>> 12. Now take off your baggie on the CV joint and install the CV
>> joint.
>> Again torque bolts to 33 ft pounds.
>> 13. Check the torque on the bearing housing bolts again cause
>> once the
>> backing plate is back on it is not accessible.
>> 14. Install your backing plate top bolt that holds the wheel
>> cylinder on is
>> tightened to 14ft pounds (I used a little locktite) then in stall the
>> brake
>> line. Bottom 2 bolts are tightened to 47ft Pounds I used a little
>> locktite
>> on those as well.
>> 15. Use your punch and hammer to install the rod on the bottom of
>> the shoe
>> holder. It should be about flush with the brake shoe holder after you
>> knock
>> it in.
>> 16. Install drum with hub.
>> 17. Lightly coat stub axle with anti seize and tighten slotted
>> nut to firm
>> 18. Tighten the 2 drum bolts to 7.4ft pounds.
>> 19. Bleed rear brake. See vanagon.com archives if you don't know
>> how.
>> 20. Put on rear tire and put a thin coat of anti seizes on the
>> lugs tighten
>> them up then lower bus and properly tighten lugs.
>> 21. Now tighten you slotted axel nut to 360 ft pounds. 360
>> Divided by your
>> weight = how far away to stand on your cheater. Example I weight 190
>> so I
>> need to stand 18.2 inches from the center. Proper torque is
>> essential. You
>> may want to pay a place that works on big rigs to double check you
>> torque
>> should only cost $10 or 12 cold buds at the end of the day.
>> 22. Remove your wheel and install the Cotter pin in the Slotted
>> nut. (NEVER
>> DRIVE YOUR BUS WITH OUT THIS PIN OR YOUR WHEEL CAN FLY OFF)
>> 23. Put wheel back on and tighten you're your lugs to proper spec.
>> 24. Now with your bus jacked up again check the rear wheel and
>> make sure
>> there is almost no play if there is play you gotta go back and figure
>> out
>> what's wrong.
>> 25. Time for a Beer your done
>>
>>
>> Hope you enjoyed,
>> Kevin
>> 87 Westy
>> Burlington VT
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