Date:         Mon, 20 Sep 2004 23:59:07 -0500
Reply-To:     Stan Wilder <wilden1-1@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Stan Wilder <wilden1-1@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: LED solder gauge
Comments: To: jimt <wetwesty@TACTICAL-BUS.INFO>
In-Reply-To:  <BD750688.3176%wetwesty@tactical-bus.info>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I might be wasting my time but I've always pinched the ends of both Acid and
Rosin core solders so that the core didn't mess up my tool box drawers. It's
such a little thing since it can be pinched with a pair of pliers or just a
whack with a screwdriver.
And as far as the age of the solder, I've got rolls of solder that date back
into the 80s.
I've even got a good supply of the white lead bars that were used in body
work prior to the EPA condemning them.

Stan Wilder
More Power with Performance Coatings
http://www.engineceramics.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of
jimt
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2004 11:13 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: LED solder gauge

On 9/20/04 9:23 PM, "Vince S" <gipsyflies@COMCAST.NET> wrote:

> You must be using some very old solder with huge flux core. I have never
> experience this problem in decades of soldering.
>
>
>
When taught electronic circuit soldering techniques in civilian and military
tech schools for electronics, we were taught to use the thinnest solder
applicable to the joint/circuit and the appropriate iron for the job.  You
always verified your iron temp by melting the first bit of the solder wire
on your cleaned iron and wiped of on sponge.  Some minor changes for liquid
flux instead of cored solder.
••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
jimt
Planned insanity is best.
Remember that sanity is optional.
http://www.tactical-bus.info (tech info)
http://www.westydriver.com
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